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Using A Timing Light


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#1 jmmini

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Posted 07 March 2013 - 03:14 PM

I've got a snap-on timing light with the dial on the back, it has a clamp for the power and one for the ht lead. But I have no instructions, it doesn't reach the battery from the front so where else can I take a feed from? Also, if I set the gun to 4 degrees btdc what should it read on the balancer? 0 or 4? And same for the advance (@ 1000 rpm Haynes manual) should it say 0 or 8 if the gin is set to 8?

I'm really confused how to work it.

#2 pierres

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Posted 07 March 2013 - 03:23 PM

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#3 jmmini

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Posted 07 March 2013 - 03:25 PM

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#4 JVA10L

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Posted 07 March 2013 - 03:32 PM

If you want 8 degrees before TDC you set the dial to 8 and adjust the timing so that the flash shows the timing mark at TDC. The gun delays the flash by the amount on the dial.

#5 pierres

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Posted 07 March 2013 - 03:32 PM

Dont know what happened but tried to post a link for you, search on here there is something on timing lights

#6 petehuws

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Posted 07 March 2013 - 03:56 PM

Dont know what happened but tried to post a link for you, search on here there is something on timing lights


Is this what you were referring to?
http://www.theminifo...wtopic=76532=

JMMini, I set mine using the 'maximum advance' way with the car at 4krpm

#7 KernowCooper

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Posted 07 March 2013 - 03:57 PM

You can pick up a feed off the coil + and the - off the cylinder head bolt its only a very light load so wont cause any issues

#8 petehuws

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Posted 07 March 2013 - 03:58 PM

Oh and going back a step. I connect the positive (red of course) lead to the +12V positive side of the coil.

#9 petehuws

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Posted 07 March 2013 - 03:59 PM

Kernow just beat me :gimme:

#10 dklawson

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Posted 07 March 2013 - 03:59 PM

Your light should really have (3) connections, (2) for power, and one to a spark plug wire.

Locate your starter solenoid. There will be a large cable coming from the back of the car connected to it. Connect the "red" power cable from the lamp to that point making sure the clip on the cable cannot touch anything nearby. Connect the "black" power cable on the lamp to any nearby good earthing point you can access.

Being Snap-On the lamp should have an inductive pickup if it is not an antique. Look carefully at the pickup clamp taking note of any arrows or notes that tell you which side of the clamp "points" towards the spark plug. Connect the pickup clamp around the spark plug wire for cylinder #1 making sure to pay attention to any direction indicators on the pickup. If possible, position the inductive clamp "away" from other spark plug wires by pushing the others away as necessrary.

Experiment with the light a bit and in particular use the technique mentioned by JAV10L above. However, as you do so, keep in mind what you are doing. Start with the lamp NOT advanced. Set the dial to ZERO. Shine it on the timing marks on the front pulley. Count the teeth marks to determine where your timing is using the lamp set to zero. Now dial that numeric value on the back of the timing light (i.e. If with the gun set to zero you counted 8 degrees for your idle timing set the dial to 8 degrees). Now point the light at the pulley again. This time you will notice that the ZERO marks on the pulley line up. My point is that when you dial in the degrees on the timing light, you use the ZERO marks on the timing pulley.

EDIT: You can clip the red gun connector to coil (+) as mentioned above with one caveat. Do not use that connection if you have a ballast ignition system as the gun will not be receiving a steady 12V supply.

Edited by dklawson, 07 March 2013 - 04:01 PM.


#11 KernowCooper

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Posted 07 March 2013 - 04:14 PM

+1 Good point about the ballasted coil.

#12 jmmini

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Posted 07 March 2013 - 05:10 PM

Your light should really have (3) connections, (2) for power, and one to a spark plug wire.

Locate your starter solenoid. There will be a large cable coming from the back of the car connected to it. Connect the "red" power cable from the lamp to that point making sure the clip on the cable cannot touch anything nearby. Connect the "black" power cable on the lamp to any nearby good earthing point you can access.

Being Snap-On the lamp should have an inductive pickup if it is not an antique. Look carefully at the pickup clamp taking note of any arrows or notes that tell you which side of the clamp "points" towards the spark plug. Connect the pickup clamp around the spark plug wire for cylinder #1 making sure to pay attention to any direction indicators on the pickup. If possible, position the inductive clamp "away" from other spark plug wires by pushing the others away as necessrary.

Experiment with the light a bit and in particular use the technique mentioned by JAV10L above. However, as you do so, keep in mind what you are doing. Start with the lamp NOT advanced. Set the dial to ZERO. Shine it on the timing marks on the front pulley. Count the teeth marks to determine where your timing is using the lamp set to zero. Now dial that numeric value on the back of the timing light (i.e. If with the gun set to zero you counted 8 degrees for your idle timing set the dial to 8 degrees). Now point the light at the pulley again. This time you will notice that the ZERO marks on the pulley line up. My point is that when you dial in the degrees on the timing light, you use the ZERO marks on the timing pulley.

EDIT: You can clip the red gun connector to coil (+) as mentioned above with one caveat. Do not use that connection if you have a ballast ignition system as the gun will not be receiving a steady 12V supply.


Thanks for your helpful information :)

Instead of the pulley, where I cannot see the marks, can I use the balancer under the cover on the clutch/flywheel housing side?

#13 dklawson

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Posted 07 March 2013 - 05:19 PM

Instead of the pulley, where I cannot see the marks, can I use the balancer under the cover on the clutch/flywheel housing side?


I am not familiar with a balancer under the clutch cover. Early engines had timing marks on the flywheel. You removed a steel cover from the clutch cover to see the marks, but a mirror was often required. If your car is old enough to have these marks on the flywheel then you certainly can use them instead of the front pulley. However, there may be issues. Those early flywheels were of a 2-piece design. The hub that fits the crank tail bolted to the flywheel disk itself. I cannot remember if those were doweled so they could only be assembled one way. However, I seem to remember someone reporting in a previous post that their hub had been bolted on "out" by one position on the bolt pattern. Because of this their timing marks did not appear where and when expected.

Regardless, try the clutch cover window. Hopefully the marks are there and in the correct position. It will be obvious if there is a problem.

#14 JVA10L

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Posted 07 March 2013 - 08:37 PM

The timing marks at the clutch end are on the flywheel so they can only be correct or 180 degrees out ( i.e. if the flywheel is fitted 180 out). There will be three marks denoting TDC, 5 before and 10 before. Best way to use these marks is to hold a mirror at 45 degrees and shine the light so that you see in through the hole. Unfortunately you need two hands to do this so you need someone else if you need to adjust the timing. I have tried balancing the mirror in various ways but never with very much success.

EDIT: it helps if you can put some white paint or tippex on the TDC mark.

Edited by JVA10L, 07 March 2013 - 08:40 PM.


#15 jmmini

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Posted 07 March 2013 - 09:06 PM

Where should the timing marks be on the pulley can anyone tell me? (an image would be awesome :D)




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