34 replies to this topic

[JVA10L]

You are now on the right track, use your refurbished master cylinder with the extension on the top, no servo (the 'S' servo only increases braking by 10% anyway) and instead of the standard rear pressure limiter I would put an adjustable one in the rear brake line where you can see it. If you brake REALLY HARD in the wet (with the standard limiter) the back wheels will lock regardless of which rear wheel cylinders you have. Try the following link for examples. Personally I prefer the Tilton lever type because the position of the lever lets you know what the current setting is.

http://www.demon-twe...rtioning-valves

[Jared Mk3]

And what size wheel cylinders would you suggest I use? My car is a South African Mk3, so its essentially an Elf/Hornet body, but with the standard nose - extra weight on the back end.

[JVA10L]

And what size wheel cylinders would you suggest I use?

There is a wide choice so if you go towards the smaller end of the scale, say 5/8", you can adjust the pressure to them with the proportioning valve to get the correct balance.

[Jared Mk3]

With financial constraints I don't know about that proportioning valve just yet.

[adedrum]

I fitted 7.5 discs to a drum brake mini and also fitted a remote servo. I originally had a twin master cylinder and had to replace it with a single line version to work with the servo. The rear brakes locked-up so i fitted an adjustable bias valve from MiniSpares part No MS72 http://minispares.co...|Back to search

That did the trick. I now have a slight problem with the single pot AP calipers in that the outer pad wears half as much as the inner pad. Does anybody have experience of this? The only explanation I can think of is that there is air trapped in the outer cylinder and I need to bleed it better.

Any ideas anybody?

Edited by adedrum, 16 March 2013 - 04:41 PM.