12 replies to this topic

[PurpleEd]

Hello...
over the last couple of months I have had a bit of a tidy up of the engine bay.. This included changing the distributor that was fitted with the brit part electronic module with a Powerspark electronic distributor and I also fitted a new alternator.
I have eventually got the the mini running smoothly and the timing right, no pinking or backfiring through the carb. Timing is set to 10 degrees, with the vac pipe off... I then set the CO2 up to 3.5% and the engine runs and pulls ok.. I would like to get it on a rolling road one day to have it set up properly..
It's an A+ 1275, stage 1, Maniflow LCB and RC40... Non ballasted ignition.

The problem is the Smiths rev counter which worked fine with the brit part kit now flicks about a bit when the engine is cold..
It will sit at 900rpm then every few seconds flick up to about 2000rpm, the engine speed remains normal.. Once the engine is warm it settles down..
I have tried swapping the distributor cap over with the old one as its a tighter fit than the new one and have tried with a different coil...To no avail.. My HT Leads are on tight and only 18 months old and the spark plugs about 2 years old..

Do you think it is the new distributer causing this? I am tempted to put the old one back in but re-setting the timing does put me off as it has taken me a while to get it running smoothly... Although it's only a small fault I do like things to work as they should
Thanks

[jaydee]

Sounds like you have an RVI rev counter which does not work well with leccy ignition...
Make sure the connection at the -ve lead of the coil is solid and clean.
Also some early RVC rev counters are not very reliable and tend to fail overtime.

[PurpleEd]

Thanks... should have said it's a fairly new smiths RVC rev counter, it worked fine with the brit part electronic module.. I will check my coil connections though.. ta

[jaydee]

The RVC type is designed to work with the leccy ignition..however smiths are not the best in terms of reliability, definately worth a check to the connection.

[KernowCooper]

RVCs do play up on electronic I had one in mine and it didnt like the aldon kit, changed mine out for a classic tim and it works perfect.

[PurpleEd]

Ok, thanks for your replies.. I think I will leave the distributor and tacho in and just live with the quirkiness for now...

[KernowCooper]

I spoke with Speedy Cables and they do a new circuit board which they say cures it, £75 + P/P

[PurpleEd]

Hmmmm.. I will have a think about that.. Once the car is warmed up the tacho works as it should so I will keep it till it starts to get on my nerves... Thanks

[dklawson]

As Jaydee said, the RVC tach should work with your electronic ignition. It is the older RVI (current pulse/impulse) tachs that do not generally work with electronic ignitions.

Keep in mind however that many of these Smiths tachs (even the RVC types) are approaching 40 years old. Many of the late RVC gauges were not easily serviced. The circuit board KernowCooper suggested would probably be ideal for converting RVI tachs or repairing RVC tachs. That being said, there is nothing magic about Smiths and there are likely to be lots of nice looking aftermarket tachs available for less money.

[KernowCooper]

I put in a Tim classic shape in mine as a replacement at £40.00

[PurpleEd]

Thank you... I will look into a Tim guage and a swap over..
I did check all my connections and nipped them up a bit.. Once the engine has been running for a few minutes and is up to temperature the tacho does read normally and stops the flicking...

[KernowCooper]

Mine was real bouncy and was a RVC type but the electronics are 30-40yrs old now and the damping was gone. I have the 80mm Tim on on the dash rail visible from between the steering wheel

[PurpleEd]

Ok.. Yes that's where I've mounted mine.... I went for the smiths guage originally because I like the classic look...

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