5 replies to this topic

[1275MINIRESTO]

I am in the process of fitting a Metro engine with electronic ignition into my Mini and have a few questions.

1. The starter switch has the Pink and White resistor wire connected to the coil, I obviously need to convert this to a 12v normal wire. So the question is, the terminal on the ignition switch, does it output 12v both while cranking the starter as well as when in the run position. The reason for asking is some cars drop out the ignition live when cranking, instead relying on the 3rd terminal on the starter motor solonoid to provide 12 volts to the coil instead.

2. On a conventional starter motor solonoid you typically have 3 electrical connections (not counting the one between the solonoid and the rest of the starter motor body). One for the main battery power feed that the alternator also connects to, and another for the activation signal from the starter relay, but a 3rd one which normally provides 12 volts when cranking for balast resistor based ignition systems... Obviously the metro had electronic ignition, which runs at 12v to a coil in both the start and run positions of the key. So in theory the Metro starter motor does not need the 3rd terminal, although it is actually physically present... So, the question is, should this have 12v when cranking? As my one seems to remain dead.

I have managed to wire up the electronic ignition and if I provide 12v from a battery source to the coil it has a spark and everything is fine, so I now just need to make it so that happens off of the key during cranking and running, hence the questions above.

Many thanks for your advice in advance, once this is all done I will put together a write up of what needs to be done electrically to get the Metro electronic ignition working when installed into a mini... that is unless there is already one here somewhere.

[tiger99]

The main terminal on the ignition switch should be live at all times that the ignition is on. It will feed the ballast resistor (pink-white as you know) and also white, which goes to various places, certainly at least the fuse box, which need to be powered when the ignition is on. Easy to check, without the starter connected, switch on any accessory circuit that is controlled by the ignition circuit (indicators are one of many), turn the key to the start position, and see if they stop flashing. If not, the switch is wired as I have said.

As to the ballast bypass terminal on the solenoid, it should work, and yours seems to be faulty, unless the terminal is for some other purpose, which would seem to be a bit odd.

[pmplovesminis2006]

the ballast resistor wire is joined in the loom above fuse box just under scuttle if you unwind the black tape its two white wires and a steel crimp to the resistance wire i cut and join in a normal piece of wire which then is 12v tape it to loom and there you go

[tiger99]

Interesting. I never knew where they actually joined it. There are a number of joints within the loom, which vary according to model, and their positions are not well documented.

[1275MINIRESTO]

Thanks for your input guys!!!

Will have a tincker later and ill let you know how i get on, most likely see mee later asking more questions!!

must admit the response on this forum is the best i've had yet!

[dklawson]

If you are using the factory electronic ignition, please remember that you need to use the correct coil for that ignition. You will not use the ballast coil that your car was originally wired for.

Just as a point of clarification, the terminals on the ignition switch will all be making/breaking 12V. The switch itself does not have "low" or "high" voltage terminals on it. When current flows down that pink/white wire (which is resistive), a voltage drop occurs along the length of the wire so the coil end (not the ignition switch end) will have a measurably lower voltage on it. HOWEVER... you will only be able to measure lower voltage on that wire when current is flowing through the wire. If the wire is disconnected at the coil end OR if it is connected at the coil but the points (or ignition module) are NOT closed... you will measure 12V on that wire.

Your electronic ignition coil will need a full 12V so supply it either by running a new white wire from the ignition switch to coil (+) or run a new white wire between the fuse box and the coil. You will not need to make a connection between the coil and solenoid.