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Cylinder Head - How Should I Prep And Paint?


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#1 maieth

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Posted 21 March 2013 - 11:45 AM

Hi folks.
Part way through a rebuild of my mpi engine. Gearbox has been fully cleaned and refurbed, engine block is away at a machine shop for cleaning, polishing and repainting and the cylinderhead is sitting on a unit in my garage, all pitted and brown. Cleaned it up outer surfaces with a wire brush so far (not gasket surfaces, obviously), but it still looks uuuugly.

As most of the block is hidden by all the MPi's wiring and extras I don't want the head to spoil the finished engine bay by still being ugly, pitted and rusty when everything else will have been done so well.
What processes should I go through to get the head properly clean? And when painting, what paints do you guys recommend? Probably going for black, need to speak to machine shop to see what they're doing and match it (kind of a favour on the engine, so cant make too many requests really).

Cheers

#2 jonny95

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Posted 21 March 2013 - 04:49 PM

i used hammerite on mine and it came up really well

#3 rubinio

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Posted 22 March 2013 - 11:03 PM

I just use standard automotive spray paint cans for block and head, never had a problem with the paint burning off unless you have an exhaust leak.

#4 minimad10

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Posted 22 March 2013 - 11:41 PM

when ive done it ive wire brushed them, primer and then spray it the colour you want.

#5 maieth

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Posted 23 March 2013 - 02:01 PM

Picked up some gloss black engine lacquer Going to have a go at roughest areas of the head with wir brush drill attachment, stick to plain old wire brush on the rest and then prime and paint.

#6 DAVEY_C

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Posted 23 March 2013 - 02:13 PM

i always use high temp paint and try not to paint onto a cold head if ye can because the paint takes better if the head is warm (no smart replies please that ye'd hardly throw the head back on the engine just to warm it up lol) make sure its well cleaned and degreased 1st too. have a stanley blade handy for cleaning off those flanges where the parts bolt onto the head.

#7 maieth

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Posted 24 March 2013 - 06:50 PM

Any tips on 'warming' the head?

#8 rubinio

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Posted 24 March 2013 - 07:22 PM

Heat gun does the job perfectly, i usually use a heat gun to warm the casting and have a nice heater as well to keep the air warm in my garage as its freezing and i need to keep my mitts warm!

#9 ANON

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Posted 24 March 2013 - 08:57 PM

Any tips on 'warming' the head?


oven

#10 maieth

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Posted 24 March 2013 - 11:03 PM

Lol, common sense really. Oven sounds like an easy enough solution. Any clever tricks for avoiding getting paint onto gasket surfaces? Can obviously clean up with thinners after, but would rather not bake the mess in the first place.

#11 Noah

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Posted 24 March 2013 - 11:07 PM

Lol, common sense really. Oven sounds like an easy enough solution. Any clever tricks for avoiding getting paint onto gasket surfaces? Can obviously clean up with thinners after, but would rather not bake the mess in the first place.


Masking tape.

Roll it up into balls for the spark plug holes and push it into place.

Lay flat lines across the mating surfaces and then with a sharp scalpel/Stanley blade cut out the shape, then you can get right up the the edge but not get paint on the mating surfaces :)

#12 rubinio

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Posted 24 March 2013 - 11:19 PM

a word of caution with the oven, any oil residue will stink to high heaven and may taint any food, use a dedicated oven if you can (or if you fancy 20w50 roast beef)

as for masking do exactly what noah has said, masking tape and a sharp blade, you could even use an old set of plugs to block the spark plug holes

Posted Image
the lacquer was still wet when i took this picture and the flash has made it look really shiny which infact its not. and after a head cycle it matts down nicely. (standard automotive cans with a few coats of lacquer on top)
Posted Image

Edited by rubinio, 24 March 2013 - 11:20 PM.


#13 maieth

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Posted 25 March 2013 - 01:07 PM

Masking tape, scalpel, old plugs. Okidoke




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