
Mini Spi - Idles Fine At 900 Rpm When I Drive The Car And Go To Stop It Cuts Out
#1
Posted 24 March 2013 - 05:14 PM
Had this problem for quite some time now and no ones really been able to shed any light on it for me, thought id ask again with a little more information.
so my mini will turn on and idle absolutely fine (cold and hot) as soon as the car is revved especially over 3k once the throttle is disengaged it will often not return to idle to cut out,
I had noticed the car had been running very lean, but then i checked the plugs again and it had been running really rich a few week later.. without anything being changed.
please note these are the things i have already tried:
1: standard ECU used
2: specialist components typhoon ECU used
3: car checked numerous times for an air leak (pipe from fuel trap to ecu, fuel trap to inlet, inlet to the valve on the other side)
4: air temperature sensor changed (green one on air filter)
5: stepper motor replaced
i also adjusted the lost motion link to get the prong in the middle of the two forks
any ideas please people??
#2
Posted 24 March 2013 - 05:50 PM
#3
Posted 24 March 2013 - 06:00 PM
#4
Posted 24 March 2013 - 06:02 PM
If the idle speed or lost motion link was adjusted without using a diagnostic, it may be out from what I've heard, but don't take my word for it
i have a typhoon ECU with diagnostics which was used,
yes its a manifold stage 1 exhaust BUT thats been on the car 3 years without issue
#5
Posted 24 March 2013 - 06:08 PM
#6
Posted 24 March 2013 - 06:14 PM
why would the timing suddenly go out though? ive had the car 4 years never touched the timing surly it doesnt just go out of time:S? please note it runs perfectly unless i go to stop then it will cut out lol
#7
Posted 24 March 2013 - 06:56 PM
I believe this post above is correct "If the idle speed or lost motion link was adjusted without using a diagnostic, it may be out from what I've heard, but don't take my word for it"
Edited by firstforward, 24 March 2013 - 06:57 PM.
#8
Posted 24 March 2013 - 07:13 PM
#9
Posted 25 March 2013 - 07:49 PM
#10
Posted 26 March 2013 - 05:44 AM
My Cooper used to to do this and even though I couldn't identify a leak, changing all the vacuum pipes and the fuel trap fixed the problem straight away, never ran better.
Also, are you running a standard air box? My car hated having a chrome k&n on!
#11
Posted 26 March 2013 - 05:32 PM
#12
Posted 26 March 2013 - 06:48 PM
well ill replace them for brand new ones and see if that helps as ive already said i have checked them all several times anyway, bought a new fuel filter aswell.
I used to think mine were fine, but I changed them anyway. Fixed my problems! lol
#13
Posted 26 March 2013 - 09:22 PM
#14
Posted 29 March 2013 - 05:21 PM
But today ive sat with my laptop connected to my ECU and fixed the problem for some reason my target idle level was 600 which is why it kept stalling ahah
live and learn
#15
Posted 12 June 2013 - 11:44 AM
another update here just incase anyone has this problem in the future... the reason for the cutting out after high revs was the fact that the map loaded onto my ecu was only a base map and after the high revs the ecu returned for a few seconds to an unmapped portion which has next to no fuel which is why it kept cutting out unless i gave it a little rev first!
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