what looks like my oil pressure switch is leaking. quite a bad leak aswelll. its 1996 spi sprite, and im wondering if its just a straight swap or is there a certain procedure to follow? should i try tightening it up first? really not sure what to do at the moment...
Oil Pressure Switch Leaking?
Started by
Ado1379
, Apr 04 2013 05:22 PM
3 replies to this topic
#1
Ado1379
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Posted 04 April 2013 - 05:22 PM
#2
KernowCooper
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Posted 04 April 2013 - 05:41 PM
They are a tapered thread so check its tight first, but they do leak on the crimp on the body from time to time, check and replace if required, If you have to fit a new one tighten it up reasonabley tight and it should be ok
#3
Old Bob
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Posted 04 April 2013 - 05:42 PM
Put a spanner on it and check that it is firmly screwed in. If not, tighten it and problem solved....... If it is firmly screwed in and still leaking then you are going to need a new washer.
If it is the pressure switch itself (unlikely) then it just needs replacement. Simple and not too expensive!
Bob
Sorry - too late........
Bob
If it is the pressure switch itself (unlikely) then it just needs replacement. Simple and not too expensive!
Bob
Sorry - too late........
Bob
Edited by Old Bob, 04 April 2013 - 05:42 PM.
#4
tiger99
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Posted 05 April 2013 - 05:11 PM
You should put PTFE tape (as used by plumbers and available from B&Q etc) on the thread if it is tapered, as contrary to popular belief, a tapered thread does not seal on its own, just by tightening. The thread has root and tip clearances which form leakage paths, even after the flank clearance has been fully taken up by tightening, unless filled with some kind of sealant.
Threaded joints are actually a complete abomination as regards good engineering practice, but that is another debate, as we have what we have, and you will probably find a few in your domestic plumbing and even gas system too.
If it is a parallel thread, unlikely on a pressure switch, it uses a copper washer. The earlier A series engines in the Morris Minor etc did actually use a parallel thread and washer.
Your leak is probably from the body of the switch if it has not been disturbed recently, so it needs to be changed. It might be a good time to consider a 22psi switch, which gives more warning of problems, or a T piece and gauge if you have not got one already. The T pieces I have seen have always had a taper thread, so need sealant.
Threaded joints are actually a complete abomination as regards good engineering practice, but that is another debate, as we have what we have, and you will probably find a few in your domestic plumbing and even gas system too.
If it is a parallel thread, unlikely on a pressure switch, it uses a copper washer. The earlier A series engines in the Morris Minor etc did actually use a parallel thread and washer.
Your leak is probably from the body of the switch if it has not been disturbed recently, so it needs to be changed. It might be a good time to consider a 22psi switch, which gives more warning of problems, or a T piece and gauge if you have not got one already. The T pieces I have seen have always had a taper thread, so need sealant.
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