Hi,
First time posting, even though I've had my mini for 6 years :-/.
I need to re-build an engine for this years sun - when it comes! I want to put an engine in that has been re-built so that I know where I stand with it.
I have been running a standard 998 with a stage 1 manifold + exhaust which I took straight out of a donor when I rebuilt my mini - unfortunately it decided to give up last year. On inspection the head gasket had gone, but it went in the middle of a long journey and took a lot of water and oil with it too together with some horrible noises. :-(
I want to put a 998 back in as I have all the stge 1 etc
I have two 998 engines aged 1988 - 1990.
Engine 1 - The head gasket has gone but there were horrible noises
Engine 2 - is an engine that was in the shell when I got it, it did run but sounded horrible..
Advice I need - What do I do?
I'm a total novice when it comes to re-building engines. I can take one out and put it back in etc... thats it.
Do I tackle it - where do I start?
Are there cost effective engine re-builders or will that be silly money?
Please help and advise.
Thanks. Sam.
Novice 998 Engine Re-Build Advice (Please Help)
Started by
Sam C
, Apr 06 2013 05:05 PM
5 replies to this topic
#1
Posted 06 April 2013 - 05:05 PM
#2
Posted 06 April 2013 - 05:51 PM
If you pay someone else to re-build the engine properly allow about 25 hours at, say, £30 per hour.
Then add in a figure for parts which will need to include pistons, bearings, oil pump, camshaft, cam followers, water pump, timing chain, valves, valve guides, valve springs, all new seals and gaskets, plus lots of small bits & pieces.
Add the cost of machining which will need to include re-boring, crank grind, block deck skimming, head skimming, valve seat cutting, etc.
If you have a good tool kit you can do the work yourself, just putting the machining out.
There is a lot of real help available on here.
Then add in a figure for parts which will need to include pistons, bearings, oil pump, camshaft, cam followers, water pump, timing chain, valves, valve guides, valve springs, all new seals and gaskets, plus lots of small bits & pieces.
Add the cost of machining which will need to include re-boring, crank grind, block deck skimming, head skimming, valve seat cutting, etc.
If you have a good tool kit you can do the work yourself, just putting the machining out.
There is a lot of real help available on here.
#3
Posted 06 April 2013 - 06:52 PM
Thanks Cooperman!!
I think I would like to have a go at re-building it myself. - Someone must have done a shopping list on here?
How much would I expect to pay for - re-boring, crank grind, block deck skimming, head skimming, valve seat cutting, etc. and where would I go?
Sam.
I think I would like to have a go at re-building it myself. - Someone must have done a shopping list on here?
How much would I expect to pay for - re-boring, crank grind, block deck skimming, head skimming, valve seat cutting, etc. and where would I go?
Sam.
#4
Posted 07 April 2013 - 08:17 AM
You need to strip the engine, & with the help of a Haynes manual, assess which parts are worn and which can be reused.
What kind of tools do you have access to ? As you will need a micrometer for measuring the crank journals for example.
If you do not feel confident doing this, a good machine shop should be able to inspect & measure/check the parts for you to assess what is needed.
The worst case scenario will see you needing everything Cooperman mentioned above, but if you're very lucky the engine may be low mileage & have been looked after and will not require as much work. This is why it must be stripped & inspected as every build will vary.
If you're very lucky, as a minimum you'll need new big end & main shells, cam bearings, cam followers, oil & water pumps, & a full gasket set. But to the other extreme it could require everything.
It also depends if you want to make the engine "like new" to last as long as possible, or would be happy with a basic overhaul that will keep you motoring for a couple of years before you fit a bigger engine etc ?
As you may get away with, for example, a piston re-ring & bore hone rather than the more expensive new pistons & a rebore. But as I said it depends entirely on the condition of the engine when you strip & inspect it.
Also don't forget the gearbox may need attention to !
Phil.
What kind of tools do you have access to ? As you will need a micrometer for measuring the crank journals for example.
If you do not feel confident doing this, a good machine shop should be able to inspect & measure/check the parts for you to assess what is needed.
The worst case scenario will see you needing everything Cooperman mentioned above, but if you're very lucky the engine may be low mileage & have been looked after and will not require as much work. This is why it must be stripped & inspected as every build will vary.
If you're very lucky, as a minimum you'll need new big end & main shells, cam bearings, cam followers, oil & water pumps, & a full gasket set. But to the other extreme it could require everything.
It also depends if you want to make the engine "like new" to last as long as possible, or would be happy with a basic overhaul that will keep you motoring for a couple of years before you fit a bigger engine etc ?
As you may get away with, for example, a piston re-ring & bore hone rather than the more expensive new pistons & a rebore. But as I said it depends entirely on the condition of the engine when you strip & inspect it.
Also don't forget the gearbox may need attention to !
Phil.
#5
Posted 07 April 2013 - 08:28 AM
Bottom line is here, strip and then have the parts measured & inspected to determine whats worn. I am Happy to do free measuring up for forum users. In fact I did one yesterday on a 1380 project that needed more than just a straight re-build.
Skipping this step is the start of an unsuccessful project!
You also need to consider ancilliaries, rebuilt carb, dizzy and starter/alternator to complete the job.
AC
Skipping this step is the start of an unsuccessful project!
You also need to consider ancilliaries, rebuilt carb, dizzy and starter/alternator to complete the job.
AC
Edited by ACDodd, 07 April 2013 - 08:29 AM.
#6
Posted 07 April 2013 - 11:15 AM
It was more expensive than i was thinking but then I have gone a bit mad, not not a bad as you can....
Des Hamill has a good book if your thinking of doing the spanner work. It called something like how to blueprint and build a 4 cylinder short block.
Talks about measuring and the like. I found it very useful.
Des Hamill has a good book if your thinking of doing the spanner work. It called something like how to blueprint and build a 4 cylinder short block.
Talks about measuring and the like. I found it very useful.
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