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Austin 1300 Gear Box Locked/jammed Up Out Of Blue :(

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#1 nimeso

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Posted 10 April 2013 - 08:19 AM

Hi all!

Any ideas/help would be great!

I cleaned up my carburetor on my 1971 Austin 1300 and started her up a-ok (in neutral... I think... she made no movement or grinding noises).

1. The settings were a bit wrong and the throttle was turned up to much.
2. At first I had a bit of blue smoke out the exhaust but figured it was the new paint etc etc.... she seemed to be fine and smoke slowly went away.
3. Turned her off
4. Went to start her up again and the gear stick is stuck in what feels like 1st or 2nd gear (I'm 99% sure I put her in 1st gear after the first run above)
5. I can push down the clutch and she will run a-ok... but still can't move the gear stick out of gear... feels jammed ... arrrrgh
6. when I start her without the clutch down she jolts forward like you would expect in 1st gear.

I'm just learning cars and any ideas/help would be great. Do I need to take the gearbox out to see what's going on? is there a easier way to find out what is wrong?

Thanks heaps!
Jamie

Edited by nimeso, 10 April 2013 - 08:21 AM.


#2 Mad Max

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Posted 10 April 2013 - 09:13 AM

What happens if you start it with clutch down and then try and pull away?.

Check that the linkages under the car havn't wedged against anything. How did the gearstick get into 1st/2nd gear?

Also what other work have you done to the car?

Abit more information and someone on here might be able to help.

#3 Guess-Works.com

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Posted 10 April 2013 - 09:25 AM

Is it a remote gearbox or rod change ?

#4 miniman3003

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Posted 10 April 2013 - 11:53 AM

My grandparents had a 1971 Austin 1100 for over 15 years so I got to know the model well.

It should be a remote change 'box and if the 1100/1300 range did receive a rod change 'box, that would have been in the last few months of production (73/74).

It sounds like the drive rod into the 'box itself is a bit seized up or stiff to operate due to lack of lubrication.

A recurring problem with our 1100 was that the gear change would become very stiff to operate. I found that a few drops of oil on this rod every so often made for a much easier change.

If you look down down the back of engine, you will see a ball joint assembly and the rod that goes into the 'box by the diff housing. I would get a friend to operate the gear lever (with the clutch operated if necessary) and see if there is any movement with this ball joint. If there is not or very little, then it could be lack of lubrication.

There is a sort of circular depression around this rod which is ideal as it can be filled with oil and provides a reservoir.

I would tip some WD40 down there first off and let it soak in for a day and see if that does any good.

There is also a nylon cup at the bottom of the gear lever and I found from the 1100 above that this can wear after a few years and make gear selection more diffcult. The linkage was always a bit 'rubbery' at the best of times and I can see why BL brought in rod change 'boxes.

The cup is not expensive and should be obtainable (somewhere). The Part Number was (years ago) 22G389 but it has probably changed several times since then!! I renewed the cup on the 1100 and the gear change was much better.

If that does not sort it out, then it could be that one of the clamps on the gear linkage has come loose. That would mean removing the remote change housing to have a look.

However, try the easiest solutions first.

#5 nimeso

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Posted 11 April 2013 - 02:09 AM

Hi everyone!

Thank you all for your help and great advice!
After reading a post somewhere else it talked about how the bearings can pop out a little bit in the gears if the throttle is to high (not great but not super bad)... after some fast jiggling of the gear stick it popped back into place and seems 100% fine now :)

Thanks again all





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