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Replaced Alternator And Won't Start


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#16 lrostoke

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Posted 10 April 2013 - 06:40 PM

don't connect it to the alternator if its white/black it should go to the dizzy , but if your's runs with it disconnected then the dizzys been converted...tape it up.

That batterys low, could be a cell down.
See what reading you get direct at the alternator

#17 CFB0800

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Posted 10 April 2013 - 07:11 PM

Right I have spoke to my dad to clear some of your questions up.. (He is not good with electronics) and he has said that is is an electronic egnition so the thought that the white and black cable is an old earth could be true... However could someone explain why when the engine is running with the three pin plug in the battery only reads 11.77 volts... I read on a thread it should be reading excess of 12 when the car is running

Thank you everyone who has commented it is helping me alot

#18 lrostoke

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Posted 10 April 2013 - 07:17 PM

You have voltage drop somewhere or the power from the alternator isn't making it to the battery

11.77 is low for the battery you say it reads this engine running and engine off...so that's just the battery voltage..should be about 12.5 or so on a fully charged battery

That's why I said test at the alternator. multimeter put the negative lead on the block, and if you have the probe type fitting touch it onto one of the brown wires coming out of the alternator.
See what reading you get, engine running should be over 13 volts

If you get over 13 then go to the solenoid on the starter motor and do the same thing but touch the threaded stud with the brown wires connected




#19 CFB0800

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Posted 10 April 2013 - 07:30 PM

Thanks I will try that tomorrow in the light and post my results

#20 Dan

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Posted 10 April 2013 - 07:58 PM

It's not an old earth, it's an old ignition low tension. It should never have been connected to the alternator. Tape it up to insulate the end and then tape it back to the wiring loom.

You haven't tried running it without the 3 pin plug connected have you? You can damage the alternator that way.

Edited by Dan, 10 April 2013 - 07:59 PM.


#21 CFB0800

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Posted 10 April 2013 - 08:01 PM

Dan,

No I have only had it running when the three pin plug has been connected! The brown wires look broken after peeling tape off so going to replace them tomorrow

#22 CFB0800

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Posted 11 April 2013 - 09:14 PM

That's it working (I think)

How long would it run at night with the lights and radio running just going from the battery?

#23 KernowCooper

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Posted 11 April 2013 - 09:24 PM

Rather than risk breaking down if its not charging, just put a Multimeter on the battery and at approx 2500rpm you should see 13.7v to 14.2 if you not seeing this reading its not charging correctly.

#24 CFB0800

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Posted 11 April 2013 - 09:55 PM

Okay will do that, thanks

#25 CFB0800

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Posted 12 April 2013 - 12:53 PM

Guys....

My brand new alternator isn't charging... Any ideas why?

#26 lrostoke

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Posted 12 April 2013 - 12:57 PM

Have you run the tests I mentioned further back, taking voltage readings at different points ??

Does the red warning light on the dash come on when you turn on the ignition and does it go out when the engine is running

#27 CFB0800

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Posted 12 April 2013 - 04:17 PM

I've done the checks mentioned and try read 11:5 (same as battery) and I have replaced the brown wires to the coil...

And yes the light comes on with ignition then off when running

#28 lrostoke

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Posted 12 April 2013 - 04:30 PM

If your getting 11.5 at the alternator it sounds like its faulty, or even fan belt isn't tight enough.

Is that a typo brown wires to the coil ??? Shouldn't be any brown wires on the coil

#29 CFB0800

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Posted 12 April 2013 - 04:34 PM

Okay I will contact the supplier I bought it from and I thought it was the coil.. The 2 brown wires from the 3 pin plug have been replaced

#30 lrostoke

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Posted 12 April 2013 - 04:51 PM

Both those brown wires go to the battery cable terminal on the solenoid..

It's probably the solenoid you are thinking of..






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