17 replies to this topic

[brivinci]

Ever since I put the car back together, the alarm does not work at all. The LED on the dash never blinks. My fob however does still blink when you press the button. I have a fob with a single button in the middle if that means anything. Also, I have the 4-fuse box in the engine compartment and the mess of inline fuses throughout the car.

What can I test? I have now wiring diagram on the alarm system unless i am looking for the wrong thing. I assume that the alarm works off of the two door switches that also operate the interior light. The two doors and the boot have a single purple with white stripe wire and the front has a purple with red strip. The doors and boot all have 12v going to them when tested. The front does not. No power at all. I disconnected the alarm harness from under the dash and checked for any continuity from the switch to the plug, it was perfect. No breaks. I also found a 12v power wire going to the one of the thicker wires in that alarm plug. I just dont know what else I can check and if there are any inline fuses to look for.

The car did sit for a very long time with the battery disconnected and most of the wiring disconnected as well. I know that alarm box was removed at put in storage during the rebuild.

Thanks

[Fast Ivan]

Fob battery?

[100ev8]

all the pin switches connected and working ?

[brivinci]

Pin switches? Meaning the door/bonnet/boot switches? If so, I think so. I tested them last night as stated above. Both door switches have 12v running to them as does the boot. The bonnet switch does not and is a different color then the other 3.

[xrocketengineer]

Per the Rover diagrams, these are the functions on the alarm connector for up to about 1994 where the immobiliser only disables the starter.

1 not used
2 red/black alarm diagnostics
3 not used
4 white power from the ignition switch
5 not used
6 purple/white door switches
7 not used
8 not used
9 red/green alarm diagnostics
10 not used
11 white/red cranking power from the ignition switch
12 purple permanent power from fuse 3-4
13 purple/black horn
14 not used
15 black earth
16 not used
17 not used
18 purple/pink boot switch
19 purple/red bonnet switch
20 not used
21 not used
22 yellow/brown alarm LED
23 purple/slate alarm diagnostics
24 white/pink starter relay
25 green/red LH indicator lights
26 green/white RH indicator lights

[brivinci]

VERY helpful...as usual.
I will have to look again but I feel my boot is a purple and white?

Currently, nothing happens. I can push the fob (fob blinks) but the system doesnt do anything at all. No LED on dash, no anything. I guess I will check to see if I am getting power and ground with the info above and then see if anything looks off, check for continuity, all the basics unless someone has a better idea

[xrocketengineer]

Sounds like a plan. I can not help you much more since my Japanese Cooper has no alarm and no boot or bonnet switches. Apparently the harness is different for the Japanese Minis since there is a different part number for them in the Rover parts book.

[100ev8]

pin switches should be earth not live

[MiniAida]

I know mine is a later model, but try this;

Disconnect battery (earth lead) for at least 1 minute

Reconnect battery then make a cup of tea (i.e.wait at least 3 mins)

Activate alarm with fob whilst sitting in car, then turn it off. Hopefully it will start then. Remember, opening the driver's door once ignition turned off will activate immobiliser.

I've had to do this many times, although I'm not sure why the alarm light on the dash isn't blinking - I put a new dash in and haven't put the led back in, so can't remember if it used to come back on after reconnecting battery.

If this doesn't help, I'd personally re-check the connections to the immobilser / alarm.

Good luck,

MA

[xrocketengineer]

Uhmm... the door switches should have 12VDC coming through the interior dome light if the light is off or not grounded (doors closed and dome light switch off). However, the boot switch is not connected to anything else. It should have no voltage, just like the bonnet switch. Unless there is something wrong or not properly documented in the wiring diagrams.

[brivinci]

Ok, I may have been doing something wrong.

To start, I just want to clarify that the alarm is not doing anything. The car is running just fine. Push the button and still nothing. All doors closed, push (red blink from fob), open the door and nothing.

Second, I was testing the door pin with the doors open and the dome was most likely on then. Please clarify this for me exactly how the door pins operate (will soon be installing some LED under-dash lighting)? The purple/white wires that are going to the door pins are live or grounds?

The bonnet pin has no power to it and I will have to check the boot again. It didnt have 12v when I tested as stated. It did have some voltage I think though. Maybe 6. If it should have none, then maybe there is where some problems are?

Edited by brivinci, 12 April 2013 - 06:06 PM.

[xrocketengineer]

Not unique to the Mini. You have 12vdc going to one side of the interior dome light. The other side of the bulb is connected the door switch(es). With the door closed, the switch is opened, no electricity flows through it. Therefore, if you connect your voltmeter from the switch wire to earth/ground you will measure 12vdc because the circuit is "floating". If you keep the voltmeter connected as before and then open the door (switch closes) the switch wire will be earthed, the light will come on and no longer will you measure any voltage on the wire that now has been earthed.
Another example: Get a few resistors. Connect one end of the resistor to a car battery terminal. Measure the voltage from the other end of the resistor to the other terminal of the battery and you will measure the same voltage as if you measured directly from terminal to terminal of the battery. You can keep adding resistors to the first one and the voltage will always be the same battery voltage. The voltmeter has (ideally) infinite resistance and therefore no current will flow through it and there is no voltage drop.
The bonnet and boot switches are only connected to the alarm electronics. It is possible that there is some voltage on those wires that can be safely earthed due to an internal resistor.

Edited by xrocketengineer, 12 April 2013 - 10:20 PM.

[splitpin]

If you just want to start it remove the alarm and link between wires 24 and 11

[minimat]

I just bypassed mine as stated above as it was becoming troublesome and you cant get the fobs anymore,the only difference was I fitted a switch in the circuit as an immobilser then fitted and aftermarket alarm (all the connections you need are in the original plug)

[brivinci]

Ok, so lets say I want to add two LED strips under my dash so that I can actually see what the heck is going on in the dark. (that little light Rover provided is just funny) I want the LEDs to work with the doors....maybe also have a manual switch to turn them on.
The LED kit I found just require one power wire and one ground to get the LEDs lit (they are wired in series, through a module that controls the color and what not). I really want to have them operate when either door is opened as well as maybe a switch from inside. Think thats possible: