7 replies to this topic

[matthew_leech]

A year or so back, i fitted a pair of MINISPORT adjustable camber/tracking brackets.

Although I never had the set up properlly, even on maximum camber and toe out, visually the wheels were near vertical but still towing in quite alot. 5 thousand miles later my tyres are noticably more worn on the outer edge.

During the engine swap and general tinker time I am having I decided to take them off to investigte. After only being fitted for a year of dry weekend milage easy job i thought, However i snapped the horizontal bolt in the captive nut.

What are my options for getting this sorted? I am thinking about drilling out a much larger hole and welding a new nut in from the outside and grinding it off flush.



Do the KAD brackets offer any more adjustment? or is the likelyhood Noddy has a nongenuine rear subby? and the only real fix would be to alter the inner mounting point of the radius arm?



thanks for any advice!!

Matt

[tiger99]

The Minisport camber brackets have been known to fail on a number of occasions, so you are best getting rid of them. The safest thing to do is to modify the standard bracket to give the camber you want, perhaps 1 degree negative. There is very little reason to adjust it thereafter, and never any reason to adjust the toe which should always be about 1/16" toed in.

[matthew_leech]

The Minisport camber brackets have been known to fail on a number of occasions, so you are best getting rid of them. The safest thing to do is to modify the standard bracket to give the camber you want, perhaps 1 degree negative. There is very little reason to adjust it thereafter, and never any reason to adjust the toe which should always be about 1/16" toed in.

130 quid for KAD ones does seem a little OTT, and you point of once set they are never changed is a very valid one. Probably just saved my wallet from a workout tonight :)

[The Principal]

I have the KAD brackets and they are the nuts, they are fully adjustable in all planes allowing for minor heelboard issues plus they are built like a brick privi not cheap but you get what you pay for

[bmcecosse]

Just fit STANDARD brackets - and file the holes upwards to get the camber you want. For toe - if there is too much toe IN, fit shims between bracket and subby till it's right. Don't waste money on adjustable brackets - what's the point - you set it once and then never move them again...... Do check each rear wheel in turn by using a dead straight 6' length of timber - hold it against each wheel at hub height pointing to the front of the car - to see if one wheel is obviously toe-ing in more than the other.

[The Principal]

sounds like the OP car is a road going vehicle, if you file the standard brackets i'd be concerned the lock nut has nothing to grip against. The KAD brackets (and other suppliers) have a serrated face for the square washer to fit against and with the state of the public highway the first pot hole could over stress a modified standard bracket

[Tamworthbay]

sounds like the OP car is a road going vehicle, if you file the standard brackets i'd be concerned the lock nut has nothing to grip against. The KAD brackets (and other suppliers) have a serrated face for the square washer to fit against and with the state of the public highway the first pot hole could over stress a modified standard bracket

Adjusting the standard brackets goes back years. The space can then be taken up by in filling with weld, or even better, by welding a thick washer on the outside. Far safer than adjustable brackets.

[tiger99]

Yes, over 50 years, and as far as I know there is no history of them breaking. I don't know why the adjustable brackets were introduced, seemingly fairly late in the life of the Mini.

Actually, there are at least two better ways of making adjusters. One involves a camber adjuster on the outer bracket and toe at the inner end by slotting the subframe, so you only need a single axis serrated plate or other adjusting device at each end of the pivot shaft. The other involves some machining, and needs a pivot shaft with a slightly longer thread at the outer end, but works on the principle of two eccentrics, one inside the other.