10 replies to this topic

[PaulColeman]

I'm in the process of trying to refit the rear subframe to my daughter's 1976 Mini 1000 - you probably heard me swearing earlier on this evening?

I got the damn thing back in but most of the bolts didn't line up and then I realised one of the rubber gaiters had come off the knuckle joint ****! So I've taken it back out to refit it. A question here... is the type of grease critical on the knuckle joint? Most of the red stuff came off as I had to replace the rubber gaiter as I split the first one trying to fit the radius arm back in the subframe. I've got some wheel bearing grease, is that okay to use?

If you're about to do this job make sure you cable tie the radius arms to the subframe so they're in the up position before you try and refit it or guess what... the arm will drop and pull the rubber off the knuckle joint grrrrr.

Anyway, now that I've got the rant over with... when I got the subframe close to where it needed to be I noticed the shock absorber was about 4" short of the hole in the rear wheel arch where it needs to be. Is this just a case of jacking up the rear hub to compress the rear rubber cones? Virtually everything is new on the back... cones, bushes, shock absorbers etc.

Thanks, Paul.

Edited by PaulColeman, 12 April 2013 - 07:59 PM.

[lrostoke]

yes fit the subframe then jack up the hub, also make sure the shock is fully extended.

Bit late now but lot easier fit the subframe bare and build up radius arms etc once fitted.
Lot less weight to try and line up

[PaulColeman]

I built it up on the bench as I'm too old to be crawling around on the floor. Bits of me ache now that I didn't know I had 30 years ago ;o)

Anybody know whether wheel bearing grease is okay to use on the knuckle joint?

Thanks, Paul.

[Dan]

High melting point lithium grease is exactly what you should be putting in the joint yes. Clean the old grease out carefully though, I don't know of any red lithium greases but it doesn't sound compatible with what you will be putting in.

[mayhem13]

Sounds like you going the right way. Are you lifting it in and out again by your self? I have never thought about the type of grease in the joint befor. Just used what I had. Will try high temp stuff next time.

[KernowCooper]

I would also on the retaing bolts front espicially, apply Copaslip on the threads which go into the captive nuts on the healboard.

[bmcecosse]

I always fitted complete frame - just need a few good blocks of wood and a trolley jack or two.....

[PaulColeman]

Thanks all for the replies and info. To answer some of the points...

I've slapped copper grease on all the bolts and captive nuts. I was actually quite lucky in that the front ones came out without too much trouble. And by the looks of them they'd never been out since it left the factory in 1976. I replaced both outer sills and whilst they were off I put a few welds on those captive nuts to stop them spinning.

Yes I'm jacking the frame up using blocks of wood and axle stands to do it in stages. It's quite easy and painless but lining the bolts up is another story.

Right, let's go and have another go at it...

Cheers, Paul.

[tiger99]

I have in the past used Castrol LM in the knuckle joints, without any obvious problems. It is worth changing the relatively inexpensive knuckles, or at least the cups, every 40k miles or so, as if the cups wear through, the damage rapidly becomes expensive. I was getting at least 40k from mine, after refilling with LM, and every Mini owner should have a tin of LM already. I don't think that decent grease comes any cheaper.

The old BL manual says that Dextragrease Super GP should be used, but we live in an era when many of the old things are no longer available and will have to make do with something else. Dextragrease is red, and I don't know what is special about it, nor what is in new knuckles, as Dextragrease seems to be no longer available. Is the grease in a new knuckle still red?

The 1996 Rover manual says of the rear knuckles "lubricate with grease" and at the front lists only a standard lithium grease for general greasing, "Multipurpose Lithium Grease N.L.G 1, consistency number 2), as does the 1989 manual. I believe that LM fits that description.

[A-Cell]

The original red grease was Shell Retinax A. No longer available but Shell Retinax LC2 is the latest equivalent. Both are red to make identification in service.
They are NLGI spec. They are lithium based complex greases that resist softening and water resistant. Used for heavy duty applications. The pressure in the knuckle joint being the reason for its use.

Spec here

http://2kwy.net/pds/...naxGreaseLC.pdf

[PaulColeman]

Is the grease in a new knuckle still red?

The ones I bought from Mini Spares recently have red grease in them. I've just taken the radius arm out again and refitted the rubber seal, cable tied the arm in the up position but one cable tie is not strong enough and the damn thing broke and pulled the rubber gaiter out AGAIN. I've now put locking wire around the bottom of the gaiter to try and hold it and I'm using 3 cable ties now. After lunch I'm going to refit the radius arm for the fourth time grrrrr

Paul.

Edited by PaulColeman, 13 April 2013 - 11:49 AM.