31 replies to this topic

[Skortchio]

How much clearance is there between the top of your top arm and the subframe? From the picture is looks practically zip!

Aside from the obvious discomfort of feeling the suspension arm colliding with the subframe on every bump, it would seem a touch dangerous for the sake or tightening the arch gap.

As previously mentioned the way to really slamming the ass of the mini seems to lay in moving the subframe up rather than dropping the suspension down. In this way you retain normal travel and geometry while getting a pleasing scrape from the camber in the road

Kappa, the external radius of 10 vs 13 is negligible. It's the ratio of tyre : wheel that alters the perception.

[cradley-heathen]

i agree, moving the subframe up at the front is a much better, and safer solution, however it is beyond the abilities of allot of diy'ers. however if you really do want to get it ultra low, and still be safe and usable, then your going to have to do some pretty sizable modifications to both subrames and the body at both ends

[Turbo van]

Skortchio yes the lower mounts are close but I will be making some new ones and possibly modifying the subframe for more clearance. But any info on raising the subframe would be helpfully. I am not going for real low but I do want it to fit the arches nicely

[Bungle]

what are the drive shafts and CV joints like ?

and that shock needs to be inline with the travel of the top arm, it seems to be about 60 degrees out

Edited by Bungle, 16 April 2013 - 10:00 PM.

[joeyfinneran]

How low do u want ? Ull just chatch the exhaust in everything if the body it low
Arch gap is a different thing
You tubeing the rears ?

[cradley-heathen]

at the front you would need to start with a bare subframe (to make it light enough to handle and lump in and out a few times.

you would be best modifying the crossmeber that the front subframe fits under (where your big top subframe bolts go through) by cutting the bottom off, removing an inch or so of material and then carefully putting it back in higher up

then for the rear mounts of the front subframe (where it bolts to the front of the floor) pretty much cut the back of the subframes "legs" off and fabricate new "legs" to bolt up to the front bulkhead higher up.

all this sounds very simple, but you need to make sure you get it all square or your on a road to permanent crabbing!

[Skortchio]

Skortchio yes the lower mounts are close but I will be making some new ones and possibly modifying the subframe for more clearance. But any info on raising the subframe would be helpfully. I am not going for real low but I do want it to fit the arches nicely

It's pretty involved to say the least (ie. I looked at it briefly and thought "screw that noise"), in terms of pleasing arch gap - you could always just put your arches lower (tubbed rears):


Enough to give a pleasing gap but not so much it makes the car impractical, not completely anyway:

[Turbo van]

Right raising the subframe seams a bit drastic but like you say it would keep all the susp arms at the right angles. All I want is a nice gap to the arches,I think that all the rear needs is turrets which is easy enough. My van was on hi lows with 13s and I had to cut the bump stops down but the gap was all good.

[Turbo van]

[kappa]

Did you not state that this is running on 10's, this looks like its on 13's?

[Turbo van]

This is my van I restored that I put 13s on but I didn't like the way it handled do I am putting my new project clubby estate on 10s.

[kappa]

oh cool, do you have any pics of the estate on 10's?

[Turbo van]

Will get you one up tomorrow

[kappa]

Excellent cheers mate

[Turbo van]

Looks better now I have roles it out and you get a better perspective.