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12V Feed For Spot Lights


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#1 Camel

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Posted 18 April 2013 - 12:33 PM

I'm just wiring up my spot lights. Found the blue/white main beam cables and connected the relay to that. Also got the spot lights connected to the relay.

I've found the 12v feed on the solenoid but the bolt is to bit and I won't be able to get a safe connection there.

I've found on the fusebox that the second fuse down is live at 12v. It has 2 brown cables on the left side and a single smaller green/?? something on the other side with an unused spade. Will this be okay for the spot lights? The 12v cable for the spot lights has a fuse in it already which is a lower rating than that of the fuse box.

Can I also earth it through the horns earth?

Thanks

E: It's a '91 998.

Edited by Camel, 18 April 2013 - 12:35 PM.


#2 lrostoke

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Posted 18 April 2013 - 12:56 PM

It really is better to take a feed off the solenoid, those brown wires on the fusebox are already supply the electric for the rest of the car,
So could end up putting to much load on them with the spots.

Just go Halford and buy some 8mm ring terminals

#3 WiredbyWilson

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Posted 18 April 2013 - 01:09 PM

Having made these looms for others i would recommend not "borrowing" anythign from the standard loom other than the switch for the relay - the blue wire you have found.

Permanent 12v feed from solenoid with cabling rated at at least 20A with fuse, Earth the system and relay to the main earthing point on the drivers inner wing - again suitable sized cabling. Run power to spotlights, fused again at a suitable rating 10A/15A.

Halfords sell generic wiring looms with instructions, or buy from me :)

#4 Camel

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Posted 18 April 2013 - 09:02 PM

Got it sorted in the end using the solenoid for the 12v power.

Although now I have no side lights at the front and it looks like the normal lights are on main beam all the time. Not sure what I did to make that happen.

#5 KernowCooper

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Posted 18 April 2013 - 09:20 PM

This is where your wires should be

-30 = constan [positive (+) power (usually wired directly to car battery/solenoid)
-85 = coil ground (wired to the negative (-) battery terminal or any grounded metal panel in the car)
-86 = coil power(wired to the control source. In your case the feed from the main beam wire
-87 = switched[positive (+) power to your spotlights

#6 Cooperman

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Posted 18 April 2013 - 10:36 PM

For spotlights I always fit a supplementary fuse box. I run from solenoid to new fuse box and from there to the relay.
Then I run the cables for the spotlights back to the new fuse box with one fuse per spotlight and then to the spotlight(s).

#7 iwatkins

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Posted 18 April 2013 - 11:01 PM

As Cooperman, I do the same.

Made easier with a relay and three fuse holder. E.g. One of these from VWP: Posted Image and you can it under the bonnet and have it weatherproofed.

Cheers

Ian

#8 iwatkins

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Posted 18 April 2013 - 11:48 PM

.. Should have added. One of these covers a pair of spots (feed in plus fuse for each of two spots). Two will cover four spots...

Works well and saves everything especially with cheap spots that do tend to rust/short. Saying that, I'll still go with this when I get the big ass Cibies mounted. :-)





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