17 replies to this topic

[petehuws]

Hi folks, as mentioned in an earlier post I'm going to remove my DIF casing from the gearbox case this weekend, I already have my new DIF cover gaskets sitting beside me. Question is the recommendation is that a gasket sealing compound paste should be used either side of the actual gasket, what brands are good for this purpose? I've heard people saying that they just soak their gaskets in oil overnight, use bathtub silicon sealant, even to the extreme of 'No More Nails'. Don't quite like the sound of all of them but could see how the oil soak works. What have you lot used in the past? Many thanks Pete

Edited by petehuws, 18 April 2013 - 12:49 PM.

[cal844]

high temp gasket seal.. its a blck stuff designed for high temp uses

[petehuws]

Wow that was quick! Thanks v much Cal, I'll get looking for some "High temp gasket seal". Cheers

[pmplovesminis2006]

hi i use rtv instant gasket (automotive )
can i just ask how old the engine and gearbox are as most later rod gearboxes dont have a diff case gasket only use instant gasket ,they do have gaskets on the diff side covers
thanks phil

[petehuws]

Of course, & thanks. its a 1275A+ 1990. 3 out of the 5 helicoils which are used to screw the DIF cover to the G'box are shot so the project is to re-helicoil the casing and then bolt the DIF cover back on so was querying the sealing method. Many thanks

[james962]

I use the blue hylomar for all my gaskets.

[petehuws]

Thanks James962

[KernowCooper]

Blue Hylomar is what I use it was developed by Rollls Royce, I hate RTV oozing out and if its on the outside of the gasket face what got squeezed inside to be picked up in the oil to possibly block the pickup to the oil pump or got broken own to block a oil way in the engine. If you see gasket sealer on the outside you've put to much on.

[Ethel]

The join also clamps the difference bearings, so it's critical it's the right size. Later cars just use silicone rtv - if there's no gasket do the same, don't add one! If there is a gasket it should be fine dry, use a very fine smear of a non-setting jointing compound at most. Don't forget to position it for shimming before you torque up the fasteners.

[petehuws]

Guys, many thanks!!!

[Guess-Works.com]

You should use nothing at all.. or at worse a smear of grease.

If it's a late model A+ gearbox then you should not be using gaskets between the diff cover and gearbox case but rather a tiny bead of RTV.

[petehuws]

I'm yet to remove the DIF cover as I wanted all parts on hand so I could get the job done in one sitting, so admittedly at this stage not seen whether there is any sealing compound or gaskets in place. The car is a 1990 RSP, not that old, & not that new, this is a follow-up question to my earlier posting http://www.theminifo...-length-torque/. I'll be able to see what is currently in place when I attempt to remove the DIF cover. Thanks guys.

[Ethel]

It shouldn't have gaskets, and if it did they usually overhang the casing enough to be easily visible. Clue yourself up on the shimming process and get the later pattern of end cover gasket (same as what should be fitted) to improve your chances of not needing to add or remove any shims.

http://www.guess-wor...build/final.htm

[petehuws]

Thanks Ethel! I'll get my shimming thinking cap on, it's starting to look like this planned straight-forward job of re-helicoiling with engine & box in situ is starting to turn into a biggie :-/.

[Guess-Works.com]

You're going to remove the diff in situe....

Good luck.... it's not easy, and in my opinion, quicker and less hassle to take the engine out.