Jump to content


Photo
- - - - -

Just A Few Engine Problems


  • Please log in to reply
11 replies to this topic

#1 ghostleader101

ghostleader101

    Stage One Kit Fitted

  • Noobies
  • PipPipPip
  • 95 posts
  • Location: Worthing
  • Local Club: N/A

Posted 24 April 2013 - 08:43 PM

Hey
Haven't been on here in a while and haven't had the time or money to do anything on my mini but that's all about to change :D

Im starting with the engine, it basically doesn't start which I thinks the coil or wrong firing order in the 3rd paragraph but yeah anyway.

I took the head off a while ago to give it a good clean and when I put it back on one of the headbolts snapped :/ it's the centre front one and have been told by some it will be ok and some saying it won't be.

I want to get rid of the heater matrix as it doesn't work and it leaks so would like to know what size bolts I need to block where the pipes went.

Last thing, I took the coil, leads etc off about a year ago, put it all back on the other day but where I marked on the leads their firing order it's worn off. I'm pretty sure it's right and I've tried about 6 different combinations and none have worked. But I'm not sure If it's the coil as I don't know if it's wired right. The coil has a small round thing plugged in one end and on the other I can get the wire from the distributer plugged in but there's another terminal on that side, is there anything else that goes there? the coil is showing a really high resistance so I think it needs replacing anyway.

really should've marked it all properly lol.

Thanks in advance :)

Rob

Edited by ghostleader101, 24 April 2013 - 08:47 PM.


#2 mk1leg

mk1leg

    Crazy About Mini's

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 9,343 posts
  • Location: Jersey
  • Local Club: Mini Club Jersey, MCR

Posted 24 April 2013 - 09:07 PM

Hi..here is a tip for you......remove rocker cover and remove plugs pop it in 4th gear and pull the car forward untill the rockers on NO:1 cylinder (rad end) are rocking this is firing stroke, now remove dizzy cap and put a dot of white paint on block opp rotar arm, now put dizzy cap back on and loosen dizzy clamp and turn dizzy untill NO:1 lead is opp dot on block then check lead order 1-3-4-2 in anticlockwise order, put plugs back and refit rocker cover (with new gasket) and take out of gear and start engine....good luck.....and have you tried changing pionts condensor sometimes these fail........ :proud:

#3 robminibcy

robminibcy

    Camshaft & Stage Two Head

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 1,516 posts
  • Location: birmingham

Posted 24 April 2013 - 09:07 PM

3 - 1
4 - 2
is the order if the ht leads on the dizzy with cylinder 1 being radiator end.

i wouldn't reccomend running it without a stud. You will very likley have head gasket issues. Mine did when the thread stripped in the block leaving a stud loose and a 2 cylinder mini stranded in Wales!

As for the heater matrix it will depend on which model and age car you gave as they are differant. Make sure that it still has a full circuit for the coolant to flow round or you'll have major overheating troubles on your hands.

again with coil it will be dependant on what car you have as some coils were balasted some were not. These have slightly different wiring and resistance values. If the car had not been used for a while a good service including a new coil will do it good. What values of resistance were you getting as it could be just a dodgy wiring setup causing it to not start and fixing it will at least get it running so you can work out whether any other bits may need work.

If you can state the exact model of car and describe the coil wiring better (maybe with a piccy) I'm sure people will be able to help further.

#4 KernowCooper

KernowCooper

    Sparkie

  • Mini Docs
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 7,847 posts
  • Name: Dave
  • Location: The South West
  • Local Club: Kernow Mini Club

Posted 24 April 2013 - 09:12 PM

The head bolt does indeed need replacing and every one with any mechanical knowledge would say the same, so looks like the heads coming off again to rectify a major engine problem as the centre front bolt is the locator and differently machined to the other fronts.

Just fit a new matrix you'll thank yourself in the long run and come winter

The firing order on a correctly timed distributor is 1-3-4-2 with no 1 being at 1-2 oclock

The coil wiring on a restive coil is a White/Pink and a White/Yellow on the coil + and a White/Black on the coil -
Standard 12v Coil is White on the coil + and White/Black on the coil -

Edited by KernowCooper, 24 April 2013 - 09:22 PM.


#5 ghostleader101

ghostleader101

    Stage One Kit Fitted

  • Noobies
  • PipPipPip
  • 95 posts
  • Location: Worthing
  • Local Club: N/A

Posted 24 April 2013 - 09:33 PM

Ok thanks for the replies.

How much is a new stud? Looks like il be needing a stud extractor lol.

The car won't be used a huge amount in the winter so It doesn't really bother me, also makes the engine bay look nicer ;)

I took the coil off and tested it and I think it was something like 6.5 ohms, was about 1.5-2 ohms more than what it said in the manual.

What is the accuspark range on eBay like? was thinking of getting an electronic distributer too as well :)

Will I need to have a hose going from one end to the other then insted of blocking the holes?

Thanks again :)

#6 KernowCooper

KernowCooper

    Sparkie

  • Mini Docs
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 7,847 posts
  • Name: Dave
  • Location: The South West
  • Local Club: Kernow Mini Club

Posted 24 April 2013 - 09:49 PM

Powersparks and Accusparks are popular here on the forum and used by lots of members and are one of the best mods £ for £ you can do on a Mini.

Ballist coils are 1.5ohms and standard coils are 3 ohms so yours is outside specification and a new one should see you right.

#7 Spitz

Spitz

    Camshaft & Stage Two Head

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 1,716 posts
  • Location: Saskatchewan

Posted 24 April 2013 - 09:59 PM

".....the centre front bolt is the locator and differently machined to the other fronts."

Huh?

Oh....and if buying a new stud, why not buy a set instead

#8 KernowCooper

KernowCooper

    Sparkie

  • Mini Docs
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 7,847 posts
  • Name: Dave
  • Location: The South West
  • Local Club: Kernow Mini Club

Posted 24 April 2013 - 11:22 PM

The front centre head stud hole is machined to a different diameter to be the locator for the cylinder to be accurately located in relationship to the bores, and due to these tight tolerences can sometimes cause problems when trying to remove the head if corrosion gets between the hole and the stud. If the head wont come off after taking off the nuts this is where the problem will be.

Edited by KernowCooper, 24 April 2013 - 11:24 PM.


#9 ghostleader101

ghostleader101

    Stage One Kit Fitted

  • Noobies
  • PipPipPip
  • 95 posts
  • Location: Worthing
  • Local Club: N/A

Posted 25 April 2013 - 06:15 AM

So the centre front ome is a different size to the others or is it because I'd have to extract it and re bore it? do I need the short studs as well if I'm going to get a set? The head came off fine when I took it off, I think it was the torque wrench wasn't calibrated right so overtightened :( I thread locked the other part back on so its gana be fun getting it off lol.

Cool thanks for letting me know, there really well priced compared to ones on minisport etc :)

Thanks again for your help

#10 KernowCooper

KernowCooper

    Sparkie

  • Mini Docs
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 7,847 posts
  • Name: Dave
  • Location: The South West
  • Local Club: Kernow Mini Club

Posted 25 April 2013 - 10:20 AM

The hole in the head is a different size from the factory as a locator and should remain untouched extract the stud and replace the rest if you suspect your torque wrench is faulty, and get a new torque wrench for the reassembly.

#11 ghostleader101

ghostleader101

    Stage One Kit Fitted

  • Noobies
  • PipPipPip
  • 95 posts
  • Location: Worthing
  • Local Club: N/A

Posted 25 April 2013 - 06:39 PM

Found a set that I'm going to get tomorrow when I get paid as well as a distributer, coil etc.
How easy will it be to get the stud out? Can anyone show me a good stud extractor kit that u can get and do myself. I've done it before at college just don't wana mess it up lol.

As with bypassing the heater matrix will it be ok to block the holes or shall I join them up?

Thanks again

#12 Spitz

Spitz

    Camshaft & Stage Two Head

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 1,716 posts
  • Location: Saskatchewan

Posted 25 April 2013 - 08:19 PM

How much of the broken stud is sticking up above the block deck?

I use one that looks like this
http://www.harborfre...ctor-69466.html

.....but it pretty much mangles the stud ( which is OK if you're replacing )

If there is any thread left on the stud......you could try tightenning two nuts up together and removing that way ( thats what you could do with the bulk of your studs anyway )




1 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 1 guests, 0 anonymous users