17 replies to this topic

[rodandtom]

Hi,

 

I've just wire brushed, undercoated and hammerited my sub-frame. when I put it on the car should I build it up first and then waxoyl it, or waxoyl it all within an inch of it's life before building it up?

 

Ta

 

RodAndTom

[Jase]

I'm going to Waxoyl once built up. It's horrible stuff to handle especially when building up. Lots of aerosols of the stuff etc.

[KernowCooper]

Waxoyl in the holes and top then do the rest when in would be easier and less messy

[Tamworthbay]

Go on www.bilthamber.co.uk and look for Dynax s50 it is a million times better than waxoyl and very easy to use. The spray cans are great and come with a long lance.

[rodandtom]

Can Dynax S50 be used everywhere Waxoyl would normally be used then?

[Tamworthbay]

Can Dynax S50 be used everywhere Waxoyl would normally be used then?

Yes, they also do a 'car kit' that has the S50, UB and other stuff in it to do a whole car. It always comes out top in car mag tests. The guy who runs it is Peter Hamber and he is brilliant to deal with, if you want any advice give him a ring and he will be happy to point you in the right direction.

[Orange-Phantom]

+1 on the Bilt and Hamber Products.  Their products are excellent.

 

I've just done Project 45 with the Dynax S50 in the cavities and the Dynax UB for under the arches and underneath.  They even do a clear wax (Dynax UC) for any visible areas that you may want to do.

 

The cans with the lances are fantasic for the cavities i.e. the Dynax S50 with the lance.

 

I used a Schulzt gun loaded with the Dynax UB for underneath, the subframes and the arches.  Made the job a whole lot easier and quicker plus a hell of a-lot neater.

[Rog46]

See the latest issue of Classics Monthly for the results of their 3year anti-rust tests

[Petrol]

+1 on the Bilt and Hamber Products.  Their products are excellent.

 

I've just done Project 45 with the Dynax S50 in the cavities and the Dynax UB for under the arches and underneath.  They even do a clear wax (Dynax UC) for any visible areas that you may want to do.

 

The cans with the lances are fantasic for the cavities i.e. the Dynax S50 with the lance.

 

I used a Schulzt gun loaded with the Dynax UB for underneath, the subframes and the arches.  Made the job a whole lot easier and quicker plus a hell of a-lot neater.

+2 with the Dynax

[Orange-Phantom]

Interesting!

 

http://www.classicsm...-waxes-on-test/

 

But then there is this.

 

http://www.ppcco.com.au/dynax3.htm

 

Looking at the Classics monthly tests there doesn't seem to be any of the S50 actually on the metal!  Anywhere that I've done with it is literally covered and a very noticeable black/dark brown in colour.

[Rog46]

It looks like a case of "you pay your money and make your choice" how ever I like the idea of using a really thin one to penetrate seams well then covering up with a thicker one later. and remember don't just heat up the can of coating (whichever one you decide upon) but heat up the metal too to improve penetration!

[Tahiti Joe]

I use the Bilthamber Dynax stuff as well, filled the inside of my sills with it, a year later looked inside and it was still the same consistency as the day it went on, impressed with that. There underbody stuff is great aswell, a pig too get off though, but guess thats kinda the point!

 

Anyone tried the clear one?

[rodandtom]

It looks like a case of "you pay your money and make your choice" how ever I like the idea of using a really thin one to penetrate seams well then covering up with a thicker one later. and remember don't just heat up the can of coating (whichever one you decide upon) but heat up the metal too to improve penetration!

So are you saying that after I have primed, undercoated, topcoated, then hammerite, then waxoyl or dynax s50 - I should warm up the seams to allow protection to seep through? Wont that buble the paint and let corrosion occur?

 

RodAndTom

[Rog46]

You don't need to get it hot, just warm. I've never done it myself but I'm working on a "new" project mini, and have read exhaustively.
Don't do it on a cold day, ideally have the area you're doing stand in the sun on a hot day, that's the sort of heat we're talking about, a radiant heater in a garage would be similar.
Be careful with a warm air source initially it might just cause condensation on the cold metal so you need to run it long enough for any condensation to evapourate.
The idea is that warm waxes are more liquid and will penetrate the seams (and any rust) better!

[rodandtom]

I get it and it does make sense. I shall do that.

 

Good call

 

RodAndTom