8 replies to this topic

[Bazooka Joe]

Whilst perusing various mini shop websites and looking at shiny stuff I can't really afford, I noticed that mini spares sell a HIF44 specific dashpot damper, one that has a "hat" on top, whereas the one on mine is just the standard flat one - does it make much of a difference? I'm having tuning and running problems at the mo (although not when I got the car a few years ago) so I've ordered a rebuild kit which will hopefully sort this out, but I'm wondering if a small percentage of the problem is the damper?

Shane

 

[KernowCooper]

While yours is not the correct damper I doubt its causing more then a bit slide lifting issues, the one you have is incorrect for the carb and was originally from a HS2/HS4 earlier type of carb. Depends what your running problems are? but I would run the correct damper for the carb type.

[Bazooka Joe]

It's currently running like it has an air leak (I sprayed it all with carb cleaner to find the leak and it made no difference) but when it starts on the choke it's ok, only "missing" slightly. When it's hot it runs really rough so I have to pull the choke out to keep the revs up so it doesn't cut out at the lights - not fun on an automatic! And turning the mixture screw in or out makes no difference, so I was told on another thread it could be the choke seals and/or the float not working and overfuelling the engine. Just waiting for my rebuild kit to arrive from Mini Sport, and once I've rebuilt it it'll hopefully be ok. I though at first it was the electronic ignition kit I put on it (the M&M one) so I put points back on and re-timed it all and it made no difference. I'll get the correct dashpot damper for it, but I was just wondering if it would make a major difference, or just a little bit really.

[KernowCooper]

Sounds like you said you running weak, if the float was not shutting the needle valve off pulling the choke would worsen the problem. There is a problem on some HIFs where the small lever on the main jet assembly breaks and does not move the jet up/down when the screw is turned, so be interesting to check this first when you strip it.

[Bazooka Joe]

Thanks for the tip; when I first got it, the jet assembly was "sat" on the lever thing rather than loose inside it (if that makes sense - it was kind of trapped rather than loose) and when I put it as it should be I had to turn the mixture right up (or down, can't remember which way) to get it running!

[Ethel]

Lack of a damper causes it to run lean under acceleration, but you'd get an idea of how effective the damper is by feeling the resistance when you remove it from the dashpot. It may sound daft, but are you sure you're actually turning the mixture scew? It's set deep 'n out of view so you may just be feeling the screwdriver against the side of the hole, rig up a mirror to see.

[Bazooka Joe]

Yes, the damper has a bit of suction when I pull it out due to the oil in there. And deffo turning the screw - stubby flat head screw driver, a torch and my head practically on the bulk head! I've even tried it with the air filter off to make sure I can see it properly and it's turning. Now when I drive it, it misses quite a bit and is a little jerky unless I have the choke out, not quite as far as half way when hot, and it smells very rich, as you could imagine. I might even see if I can get another carb off here or E-Bay, just to see what it's like in comparison. I just wish this rebuild kit would hurry up...

[KernowCooper]

Something drastically wrong with the carb if the screws not adjusting the mixture, is the rest of the ignition in good order and tuned/

[Vipernoir]

I've seen this before where the bottom of the carb bashed the bulkhead nad bent the bottom plate up into the jet.
Wouldn't run at all without choke and the adjusting screw did nothing.

 

Pull the dashpot off and make sure the jet is below the bridge.