14 replies to this topic

[rich2]

Hi!

 

I've recently stripped down my clubby bonnet to repair the rust, and found that the brace was attached to the skin with a grey substance that looked like it was squirted into the gap in liquid form. It was rock solid when i scraped it off. Observe!

 

 

Does anyone know what this stuff is? I need buy some so that I can reassemble it. :)

[tiger99]

I don't know what the original substance was but you should be able to use a modern adhesive such as Sikaflex for that sort of thing.

Don't try to adhesive bond structural parts, of course. That needs procedures which are only viable in a properly controlled environment, and joints that were designed to be made that way. But this is only a bonnet, so an ideal place to use adhesive.

[mini-luke]

http://www.ebay.co.u...984.m1439.l2649

 

This stuff is great

[rich2]

Awesome. Cheers guys!

[rich2]

mini-luke: would you also use that stuff as a seam sealer?

[mini-luke]

I do, it's PU the same as tigerseal etc but much cheaper.

[Dan]

  PU adhesives are great because they suck the moisture out of the surface they are glueing, they use water to set up.  So if the panel is a little damp (humidity or whatever) when you apply it the moisture won't get trapped behind and rot the steel, it will be consumed.  Before you use it to fill this gap behind the bonnet brace though make sure it's not a foaming type or that it foams with minimal expansion force as it could distort the panel.

[mini-luke]

It's not foaming or expanding Dan 

[rich2]

Excellent. Thanks very much for the info. I'll order some!

[Ethel]

It does look the dog's danglies at that price, if it will bond plaggy fish bonds it should be plenty sticky and flexible for car panels. Maybe someone could do shear/tensile strength tests 

 

The only issue I could see is if it's too runny to fill the gaps. 

[mini-luke]

I'd say it's about grip fill viscosity, it's pretty thick and sticky and a pain to get off fingers (spoken from experience!)

[rich2]

Hi guys. A quick question about safety when using sealants like Tigerseal or the PU17 mentioned above. Do people generally wear self-contained respiratory equipment when applying this stuff?

[Ethel]

I'm sure it'll say on the packaging if there are HSE requirements - I doubt there are, decent ventilation is always sensible though.

[sonikk4]

Rich there is also this

http://www.ebay.co.u...=item3f1b98a19a

 

Considering what it is used for IE Aircraft fuel tanks it is extremely good. Yes as the advert states it is out of date however this is purely down to shelf life limits which in the Aviation Industry are very stringent. I use out of date semkits all the time and they work fine.

 

The best to get for use on the mini would be PS870B2. We use this as a edge sealant and interfay meaning it acts as a adhesive plus sealer in one go. And it has anti corrosion properties as well.

[rich2]

Thanks Neil. So when you are using this stuff do you wear a mask, an air fed respirator, or just leave the door open? To be honest I'm confused and frankly terrified by the harm I might be doing to myself with the various chemicals involved in this project, and I'm finding it difficult to find practical advice online.

 

For example, googling the Material Data Safety Sheet for PS870B2 gives me this:

 

http://site.skygeek....-semkit-654.pdf

 

...which hidden in the blurb says:

 

Use a properly fitted, alr-purlfying or air-fed respirator 

complying with an approved standard if a risk assessment indicates this is necessary. 

Respirator selection must be based on known or anticipated exposure levels, the 

hazards of the product and the safe working limits of the selected respirator.

 

Am I being overly cautious, or is there a genuine danger I need to observe?