5 replies to this topic

[johnyc]

Well I've had a busy winter and my car is now back on 4 wheels and driving with practically all new suspension components.. 

 

Took it down the road and its knocking and squeaking a little from the suspension back and front! (its had all new cones and Hilo's fitted with new knuckles new dampers on the back in a brand new sub-frame).

 

All together tightly and the wheel bearings are good. The radius arms are tight and not moving.

 

My thoughts are:

 

The squeaking, is the new cones. I hope this will stop in time.

 

There are a couple of knocks from front and back. Has anyone had trouble with their Hilo's knocking?

 

Reading what I can find online it's quite likely to be the damper not being tight enough.

How tight should I do them?

and should I have washers on the damper bolts like this. " Washer - Damper - Washer - Bolt "

 

Doing my head in as i need to send it for an MOT soon! Want to get driving my beast.

 

 

 

[tiger99]

I suggest spraying the cones with rubber lubricant. Sometimes they squeak for no apparent reason, and that usually does the trick,

 

http://www.ebay.co.u...e-/370591235099

 

 

Dampers, front and bottom end of rear, have suspension arm - thick washer - bush (with steel sleeve inside) - another thick washer - nylok nut. The washers are very necessary to prevent the bushes spreading out sideways under load. Dampers normally come with a one piece bush and the steel sleeve already fitted, and there is no reason to remove them. The nut is torqued up tight, as the washers bottom against the steel sleeve, without which it is just not going to work.

 

Top of rear damper is damper - specail washer, concave side upwards - bush with shoulder upwards - bodyshell - bush with shoulder downwards - special washer with concave side down, nut and locknut. If there is not a shoulder on the damper spindle for the top washer to bottom against, you do them up tight enough, but no more. Haynes should give a dimension to set them to. If there is a shoulder (designs vary by manufacturer) you torque it up tight.

 

The correct special washers should be fitted to a new damper when you get it.

[johnyc]

Hmmm. Will check the bottom attachment tightness and you have raised  a good point.. How tight to do the top mounts of the damper which go through

the body. hmmmm. 

[johnyc]

Another damper question. Please help

 

where the rear damper goes through the body should it be.

 

Top of rear damper is damper - specail washer, concave side upwards - bush with shoulder upwards - bodyshell - bush with shoulder downwards - special washer with concave side down, nut and locknut.

 

 

As qouted.

 

I bought these

http://www.minispare...rbers.aspx|Back to shop

 

 

and they came with washers that fitted beween the bush and the body shell so i have

 

Damper - Cup washer - Bush - Cup washer - Bodyshell - Cup washer - bush - cup washer.. Looking at foto's on how its put together the middle two washers are not needed?  WHY DID THEY COME SUPPLIED?

[johnyc]

How tight should i do the top mount of the dampers?

[johnyc]

So tightened up the shocks on all 4 wheels and that's dampened most of the noise. Still a lot of squeaking on front drivers side will try some rubber lube.

 

I've jumper up and down on it quite a bit and i'm pretty sure the remaining noises are all from where the hilo's go either into the cones or where the knuckles go into the hilo's because there was quite a lot of play in those areas when i fitted them together. I'm gonna have to live with it or hope it bonds together. but judging by how much copper grease i put in those areas im pretty sure it won't

 

Send it for an MOT next week and we shall see!