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Use Of Carpet Clips ?


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#1 elanbaby

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Posted 16 May 2013 - 07:33 PM

Hello,

 

after havíng partially removed my glued-on carpet, I thought "hey, why not buy some Mini-Spares-Carpet-Clips". And so I did.

 

But I have absolutely no clue how to fit them? Or are they not meant to fix THE carpet at all? My intention was to avoid glueing everything in place, because from time to time I like to look after rust, or dry everything out after heavy rain or wading through fjords...

 

Any idea how to use and where to fix these?

clipsg.jpg

 

Or any other suggestions to fix the carpet instead of usage of glue?

 

Juergen

 

 

 


Edited by elanbaby, 16 May 2013 - 07:46 PM.


#2 A-Cell

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Posted 16 May 2013 - 07:39 PM

Pop rivet 2 to the floor. Attach 3 to the back of the carpet using 1 pushed thru from the face of the carpet, bending the tabs to hold them together. Press fit the stud 3 to the stud 2. This retains the carpet. All you will see is the ring on the carpet.

As for wading through fjords, you must have one very watertight mini! (You mean fords not the deep water sea inlets in Norway!)

#3 Elliskwleisk

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Posted 16 May 2013 - 07:43 PM

Hello,
 
after havíng partially removed my glued-on carpet, I thought "hey, why not buy some Mini-Spares-Carpet-Clips". And so I did.
 
But I have abslolutely no clue how to fit them? Or are they not meant to fix THE carpet at all? My intention was to avoid glueing everything in place, because from time to time I like to look after rust, or dry everything out after heavy rain or wading through fjords...
 
Any idea how to use and where to fix these?
clipsg.jpg

 
Or any other suggestions to fix the carpet instead of usage of glue?
 
Juergen
 
 
 


Just a straight guess! But I would assume part one pushes through the visible side of the carpet and the sharp points go through the holes on part three, then bend the ends over to keep part three secure to the back of the carpet. Then I'd assume part two is a popper that pops in to part three and the only way I can see fitting that is to drill a hole the diameter of the popper in the panel and use the base of the popper as like a washer? Maybe a bit of tiger deal around it if it goes through the back of panel? Just a straight guess! I'm probably wrong haha

#4 Elliskwleisk

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Posted 16 May 2013 - 07:44 PM

Pop rivet 2 to the floor. Attach 3 to the back of the carpet using 1 pushed thru from the face of the carpet, bending the tabs to hold them together. Press fit the stud 3 to the stud 2. This retains the carpet. All you will see is the ring on the carpet.

As for wading through fjords, you must have one very watertight mini! (You mean fords not the deep water sea inlets in Norway!)


Dam beat me to it! Haha

#5 elanbaby

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Posted 16 May 2013 - 07:56 PM

Aha! Got it. Thanks for the megafast replies!

 

Still... don´t fancy drilling holes into the my beloved panels to fit item 2...  Is that how you all do it? Or do you rather sniff glue? :D



#6 sonikk4

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Posted 16 May 2013 - 07:57 PM

Do not use a aluminium pop rivet through the floor. IT WILL CORRODE. You will need a monel rivet as this is steel.

Something like this

http://www.orbitalfa...p-range-1.5-3.0

You should be able to pull these up with a decent set of rivet pliers

http://www.ebay.co.u...=item4171b9df63

 

My original fittings on Paddy's floor are spot welded in place.



#7 Elliskwleisk

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Posted 16 May 2013 - 08:07 PM

Do not use a aluminium pop rivet through the floor. IT WILL CORRODE. You will need a monel rivet as this is steel.
Something like this
http://www.orbitalfa...p-range-1.5-3.0
You should be able to pull these up with a decent set of rivet pliers
http://www.ebay.co.u...=item4171b9df63
 
My original fittings on Paddy's floor are spot welded in place.


Are you saying the floor or the rivet will corrode?

#8 sonikk4

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Posted 16 May 2013 - 08:21 PM

Both will corrode. its called dissimilar corrosion and its something that we have to contend with on aircraft. You could drill the hole, deburr it and then paint the hole before installing the rivet. Even then if any paint is missing and the aluminium comes into contact with with the steel then it will corrode.

 

This is through experience here and yes Rover / BL used them to attach wheel arches to wings and quarter panels and where does the rust normally start, yep the rivet holes.

 

If you do go down the aluminium rivet route then do like i have mentioned, deburr the hole, paint it then put some sealant on the rivet when you install it. this should help to protect it. Once the rivet is installed then overseal the head.



#9 tiger99

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Posted 16 May 2013 - 09:36 PM

Should the rivet not be going into a small bridge piece which is spot welded to the floor, so that there is no hole through the floor? Item 16 in the link below, or make your own. Inside a "dry" car it "should" not corrode. In theory anyway. But at least it will not cause a leak.

 

http://www.somerford...id=18&chapter=4



#10 sonikk4

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Posted 16 May 2013 - 10:10 PM

Yep item 16 is what is fitted to Paddy this is spot welded in place. Now if these are fitted to your car then happy days you can use the aluminium rivet route but still ensure everything is clean deburred and painted. However if the inner sills have been replaced then you may not have these fitted so you will then need to do just that.



#11 elanbaby

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Posted 17 May 2013 - 05:49 AM

Thanks again, namely pointing at the corrosion problem with dissimilar metals. Perhaps self tapping (steel) screws are an option? 

 

I am also thinking of glued-on velcro-strips. One part glued to the panel, the other glued to the back of the carpet. Anyone tried that before?



#12 sonikk4

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Posted 17 May 2013 - 10:21 AM

Thanks again, namely pointing at the corrosion problem with dissimilar metals. Perhaps self tapping (steel) screws are an option? 

 

I am also thinking of glued-on velcro-strips. One part glued to the panel, the other glued to the back of the carpet. Anyone tried that before?

 

The velcro method will work but the adhesive needs to be very strong and the application carefully done. We use a lot of velcro on Aircraft seats and trim etc and if the adhesive is not applied correctly the velcro will come off very easily. 



#13 tiger99

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Posted 17 May 2013 - 12:54 PM

Self tappers through the floor would not be good. You don't want sharp points protruding where large feet may contact them from outside the car, or hands during maintenance, or ripping the back of the neighbour's cat, or of course the risk of water leaks. "Item 16" is not high enough to take a self tapper, because of the length of the tapered point, but don't let me discourage you from doing something along these lines, like fitting a Rivnut and very short screw, if you really want a screw fixing.

Actually, nowadays I would use a Rivnut almost everywhere that a self tapper may have been used, simply because they are readily available and do a better job. They used to be difficult to obtain, and I think the availability of affordable Rivnut tooling may have something to do with the kit car industry.

#14 elanbaby

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Posted 18 May 2013 - 06:15 AM

Thank you all! 

 

Finally I used Velcro as I didn´t like the idea of drilling "unecessary" holes. I love Rivnuts by the way :-) But I thought for just fitting a carpet they might be a bit over the top...   To attach Velcro to panels and carpet I used Pattex. Sticks like hell!!!  

185264840.jpg



#15 tiger99

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Posted 18 May 2013 - 07:27 PM

That is a very good idea. I don't know why they were not fixed with Velcro originally, unless it was cost.






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