6 replies to this topic

[maieth]

Evening all.
I've found loads of threads here on actually fitting a battery isolator switch and I'm interested in adding this mod to my 2000reg mpi while it goes through an overhaul. Ideally I'd fit an FIA style switch to cut ignition as well as battery supply.
All I wanted to ask is what ideas people had for hiding the switch in the cabin without making installation too tricky? I appreciate this isn't something people should share in public, so please PM if you have any good suggestions rather than posting. Obviously if you're not comfortable sharing the location of the kill switch in your own pride and joy, then just ignore :)

Also, if anyone's already done this specifically on their mpi I'd love to know if you hit any other problems. Aware there's a fair bit more wiring to deal with in some places.

[iwatkins]

Ignore "FIA" (unless in motorsport). Put it in the boot. Job done. And keep it locked.

[Dan]

  The FIA switches are not good quality.  They are cheap and are not designed for daily repeated use really.  I know people who find some of them not to last a season.  Look at various auto electrical websites and you will find much better made isolator switches, including ones that use a proper cylinder key to switch them.  Also, especially with an MPi, you need to use a fuse in parallel with the switch.  If you fully isolate it then every time you switch it off many of the memories in the electronics will fail and the alarm / immobiliser (which incidentally works quite well and makes an isolator switch redundant) won't work.  If you use a fuse that is beefy enough to run the alarm system and horn then everything will work fine, but it will blow under the load of the starter and kill everything.  It might even blow under the load of the fuel pump.

Edited by Dan, 18 May 2013 - 08:24 AM.

[maieth]

I was concerned initially about issues with the alarm and with memories and losing settings, but this is also part of my reason for wanting to fit one as this already happens.
My car's not a daily driver at all and the immobiliser on the mpi creates enough of a draw, even on a decent battery (pug306) to flatten it within a week if the car isn't used. Switching it off manually would be no worse than the battery constantly being run down, but at least I could start it without hooking up the battery charger for an hour or two.
I've tried a trickle charger, but without fitting a £60-£70 one that automatically keeps the battery topped up its not enough to stop it running down. The car is also shut away in a locked, alarmed garage when not in use, so switching off the alarm when it's in there wouldn't be so bad.
If I'm not concerned about the alarm and immobiliser functioning, is the fuse still necessary?

And as far as the FIA switches go, cheers for mentioning reliability. That's the first time someone's suggested they might not be up to frequent use.

[maieth]

Would 6th or 7th item on this page be any better?
http://www.vehicle-w...ns/battisol.php

[yeti21586]

http://www.autoelect...product_list/30

[maieth]

Resurrecting this topic as reasons for fitting an isolator have changed:

It has recently become much, much more likely that someone might have a go at removing a mini from our drive so I need to be pro-active in getting a bit more security in place.  

 

As well as visual deterrents I want to be able to fit a key operated kill switch (http://www.autoelect...141/category/30 as suggested by Yeti) as an immobiliser.  Does anyone have any suggestions for alternatives to a battery kill switch, or is this still the best option?