9 replies to this topic

[Cass0]

Sorry guys i bet you're sick of these types of posts by now but my 1996 Rover Mini Sprite 1.3 SPI is having trouble passing the emissions test. Initially it was failing being high on the CO reading and the Lambda reading but is now only failing the CO reading of about 1.5% fast idle. 

 

Since it originally failed the MOT on emissions i have changed the cat converter (REACT cat converter), lambda sensor (bosch), air filter, all vacuum pipes & elbows, engine oil,spark plugs, oil filter, adjusted the tappets, Inlet air temperature control valve in the air filter is working correctly, the temperature gauge rises to the middle N position not long after starting and remains there as normal so can therefore rule out the CTS. This collectively has brought the tick over of the car down from about 1000 rpm idle to a steady 850 rpm idle and the car has never sounded as good! However after taking it for a retest it failed only on the CO reading of 1.5%, lambda and HC were bang on ok. I've also had this further confirmed at another mot station to rule out a badly calibrated reader. The old spark plugs were all sutty and black with the news ones ive put in are showing a pale brownish grey colour. 

 

I have been informed, whether correctly or not, that the ECU may require either resetting or fault codes removing. Can anyone confirm if this is correct and could now be the cause of my problem? If this is the case is there anyone out there who has a code reader they would be willing to lend me? I would collect it in person, leave whatever deposit and guarantee its safe return. I live on Merseyside and will be willing to travel within 50 mile radius.

 

As my car is now on SORN and has been off the road for over a month down to this problem i am desperate for any help, i have ran out of ideas and would really appreciate input from someone with a bit more experience. 

 

Thanks.

Edited by Cass0, 30 May 2013 - 11:39 PM.

[Captain Mainwaring]

I've only had experience of something like this on another type of vehicle, but.....if the TPS is messed around with, it can cause idle issues.

In the case of the mitsubishi, the drill to reset the initial position is easy but I understand you need a code reader with the MEMS system.

 

Have you tried giving the car a good thrashing?

Edited by Captain Mainwaring, 30 May 2013 - 11:28 PM.

[Cass0]

I haven't touched the TPS and the car is idling perfectly at 850rpm.

Edited by Cass0, 30 May 2013 - 11:37 PM.

[FlyingScot]

You need to get it on a code reader to establish that the ECU is being fed the right information (especially MAP sensor working and temperature reading - the sensor in the manifold). It could be stuck in limp home mode but unlikely with what you have said but if you are getting it read get any fault codes reset too.
One of my SPi's had a good reading on the temp gauge but when plugged in wasn't reaching more than 78 degrees and the system was over fuelling. A clean out and new thermostat later it reached the right temp which I read using the code reader.
Do not touch the set up of the TPS unless you have a code reader capable of setting the stepper motor (e.g. Sykes Pickavant ACR & relevant pod).

I am too far away to be able to help with access to a code reader but hopefully someone else can help who is closer AND knows what to do with it.

FS

[roblightbody]

My spi had terrible trouble. Making sure it's easily getting up to temperature sorted everything for mine. It must be in the mid 80s plus. Temp needle exact position is telling... it should be just a tiny fraction under the middle white line. Mine does this now, and they did this when new (I had one back then too).

root fault with mine I think was the throttle sensor.

Edited by roblightbody, 01 June 2013 - 11:09 AM.

[jamesmpi]

I think if you leave the battery disconnected for a long period of time (say over night) the ecu will clear itself of faults.....but having said that, if you do have a faulty part that is throwing up a fault, then it will reappear once the car is driven

[bluecooper95]

I just had my mot done on friday. I had problemswith the cO readings too. To sort it out the car was taken for a complete thrashing to the redline and everything to clear the cat and exhaust. I have to drive my mini like an old lady due to the black box for insurence. And that has caused me issues. Bassically i was toldto 'rev the f*ck out of it' and that will sort it

[MiniAida]

Hi Cass,

 

I'd go down the temp sender route - trouble is it's fiddly to get to.

 

I've got into the routine of running a bottle of injection cleaner through a week or two before each MOT (not that it will help at the moment) as with the SPi, a slight variation in the fuel pulsed through can tip the CO readings over.

 

Also try the disconnecting the battery overnight, as I understand though, the engine will need "running in" for a while afterwards for the ECU to re - learn the engine's best settings. Just run it for an hour or two on the drive, revving occasionally.

 

I'm sure you've made sure the cat is red hot before the test - easier with a retest if that's the only fail - my local will let me have a couple of tries, so it's just a case of trying to get the emissions tested as soon as you get there keeping revs high all the way.

 

Good luck!

[roblightbody]

Every time my car has struggled with emissions, its been because there's a fault.  Having owned one of these cars when it was brand new has helped me, because I know what it should be like.  I don't like when people say it just needs a thrashing, as I don't think its true (unless there's a fault).

 

What does it idle at once warmed up?  (needle close to the mid-point)  If anything other than a steady 850, something is wrong.  

 

My idle used to be all over the place until I got it sorted.  The steady 850rpm idle tells you that the ecu is "happy" and that all its readings are correct.

 

I had a cat destroyed in less than a year because it was running rich.  This last time, I insisted they got some good emissions from it BEFORE they re-fitted my (new) catalyst.

Edited by roblightbody, 11 June 2013 - 06:41 PM.

[Cass0]

Before I changed all the things named in my first post the car was idling around 850 to 1050rpm at normal running temperature.

 

Now with all these changed the car sounds perfect and is idling at a steady 850rpm at normal running temperature.

 

Also since changing all these parts the only place i have driven it to are the MOT station which is about a mile away and now with my car SORN i am unable to take it for a lengthy drive.

 

I recently purchased a Snap On Datacheck 300 on ebay in the hope that i could erase any faults stored within the ECU but after connecting it up and running through the procedures the screen displayed EU (which translates to ECU Unknown). 

 

The Sykes Pickavant ACR Fault Code Readers seem to be fetching around £160 minimum on ebay with many bidders

Edited by Cass0, 11 June 2013 - 08:54 PM.