8 replies to this topic

[Strak]

Hi all,

My passenger side door is really badly rusted and I plan to replace the skin. I've been looking at both steel and aluminium. I'm pretty sure if I get aluminium I need to bond it rather than weld it, and I need to use a different primer when I spray it (although I'll get a garage to do that as I'm having the whole thing resprayed). I also read something about aluminium corroding easily next to steel (http://www.minifinit...php?f=6&t=63461) which worries me.

 

The description of the aluminium skin says:

 

This is a Non genuine L/H outer MK3 door skin in lightweight Aluminium

It does not fit as well as the genuine CZH3301 but a good inexpensive replacement less mirror holes

 

Does anyone have any experience of these? How hard is it to drill the mirror holes, will it actually fit well, etc.?

 

This is the aluminium skin: http://www.minispare...els/MS11AL.aspx

This is the steel one: http://www.minispare...px|Back to shop

 

Also, my Mini is from 1979 - that's a MK3 right?

 

Cheers,

Strak

[sonikk4]

Its dissimilar corrosion that you have to worry about. When it starts its a nightmare. Unless you are doing a lightweight car i would stick with the steel skin.

 

Aluminium is easy to work with IF you know what you are doing. You can install riv nuts in the skin for the mirrors but again you have to worry about dissimilar corrosion yet again.

 

Yes it will need bonding in places and if the bonding is done correctly you can get a very strong finish. The biggest thing with using aluminium and steel together is to make sure the mating surfaces are well protected so a good quality paint on both surface will help to prevent corrosion issues. 

 

Depending on the adhesive you use this can act as the barrier between the different materials. Known as an Interfay layer.

[Tupers]

Only use an alloy on a weekend or race car they are very soft and dent easily. Only really worth if if you're into extreme weight saving. 

[mk1monster]

Although I've no experience of these skins in particular. Land rover doors also have aluminum skins and as such are quite good. Aluminum is very easy to drill. It's light and strong.

But It does corrode in direct contact with steel, and can drum Rather more than steel.

It may be that the alloy skins just require folding and pinching around the door framework rather than welding (obviously) or bonding however a decent sealant like tigerseal and priming the frame before fitting will go a long way to protecting from corrosion.

Edited by mk1monster, 04 June 2013 - 08:48 PM.

[Dylan8660]

Anodising can be added to the list along with paint and bonding agent as a seperating finnish to help prevent electrolytic corrosion. Aluminium will be my choice when the time comes but with the treatment It will recieve I dont see it as a cheap alternative as I will also treat the door frames to zinc electroplating, but the aluminium is lighter helping to centralise the weight, it generally has three times the strength of steel in equal dimensions and if done properly should last just as long if not longer than steel skins.

[black olive]

heritage steel for a road car.

[Strak]

Managed to find a whole replacement door locally so I'm going for that now! When I get the other one off I'll try reskinning with a steel skin. Thanks all :)

[sonikk4]

If you need any info on doing the reskin then pm me.

[black olive]

which reminds me I took loads of pics when I did mine and I havent posted them on here yet, whoops. Ill do a bit of a write up :)