Hi all.
My son's mini wiring burnt out due to a problematic motor/wiper assembly.
Bought a new one from Somerford Mini Spares a while ago complete with park switch.
Due to other work being done on the mini, I only got round to installing the new motor today.
First I checked the 2nd hand wheelbox/tube assembly to check the wheelboxes are free and spin easily.
I then took the wiper drive wheel out of the old motor and cleaned the old grease off and installed it in the new motor, again making sure it spun easily.
Replaced the wiring connector on the car and plugged it in.
My son set the wiper stalk to 1st wipe position and the motor spun happily.
He set it to 2nd/quick wipe and it still spun easily.
He pulled down on the stalk for intermittent wipe and the motor started and stopped the moment he let go of the stalk.
The motor drive wheel is not stopping in the park position.
I checked the wiring plug was connected properly but it does feel loose and easily pulled off but this had no bearing on the operation of the motor.
I removed the drive wheel and pressed the park switch manually but it was inconclusive as to wether it did any thing as the motor seemed to stop spinning no matter if the switch was activated or not.
I looked at the new motor and the park switch has a blue cross in permanent marker on it.
Has anyone had a new motor with the same cross on it or could it mean it's a faulty unit?
New Wiper Motor Problem - Not Parking
Started by
Brigbeale
, Jun 16 2013 06:00 PM
3 replies to this topic
#1
Posted 16 June 2013 - 06:00 PM
#2
Posted 16 June 2013 - 06:02 PM
I would try another park switch, they do seem to fail. It may have been a rogue one.
#3
Posted 17 June 2013 - 05:39 AM
probably the park switch but i did have a car with the same problem turned out to be the 'E' clip had fallen off the rear of the gear spindle allowing the plastic cam to overide the park microswitch
#4
Posted 17 June 2013 - 08:07 AM
I have installed the gear spindle and the clip is in position.
Which connector pins do I need to put my multimeter across to confirm a faulty switch?
Which connector pins do I need to put my multimeter across to confirm a faulty switch?
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