13 replies to this topic

[Craig Black]

Hi again,

 

I picked up my Mini yesterday and drove 120+ miles with no problems, the clutch pedal was near the floor but all gears were engaging fine.

 

I drove the car again last night and I was starting to experience engaging 1st and 2nd, although they still went in with a slight bit of force. 

 

Today I went out again and I couldn't engage 1st to pull away very well and it progressively worsened until it was crunching whilst engaging 3rd when going down through the gears. I stopped at a junction and couldn't get it back into 1st at all and had to pull away in 3rd.

 

When trying to put it into 1st she was slowly rolling forward but there was no way it was going to engage.

 

I have experienced no slipping at all however.

 

I've been reading about on the net all afternoon and have realised there are two different types; Pre-verto and Verto.

 

How would I know which one of these are fitted to my MIni?

 

 

[KernowCooper]

Early non verto has a long clutch armhttp://www.minispares.com/product/Classic/Clutch/Pre%20Verto%20Type/22A2204MS.aspx?0606&ReturnUrl=/search/classic/clutch%20arm.aspx|Back%20to%20search 

 

 

 

and the verto has a short clutch armhttp://www.minispare...|Back to search

 

Your car being a 1970 should be non verto if its got its origional engine and box

 

 

 

Does the pedal feel ok like its pumping ? or has a lot of free travel? like its got air in the system

 

If you have a lot of free play in the car on the pedal then it most likely caused by air in the system and points towards the master cylinder seals or the slave cylinder seal, Check the master cylinder for fluid is it full? check the master cylinder in the car under the dash for signs of a leak and in the engine compartment the slave cylinder if either are leaking then this needs attention and the air in the system would prevent the clutch from throwing fully, hence the crunching.

 

Check both items and report back if you need more help

 

Dont go forcing it in gear its putting tremendous pressue/load on the bulk rings in the gearbox

Edited by KernowCooper, 23 June 2013 - 07:21 PM.

[Craig Black]

First of all, thanks for replying to all of my questions.

 

I have just checked the Mini and I have the longer arm. 

 

When I press the pedal I'd say it was fairly light. There isn't any leaks on the garage floor and I'm assuming there would be? Where about's under the dash would I find the Master Cylinder? Is the slave cylinder the one near the arm?

 

Thanks again!

 

Craig

[KernowCooper]

Slave cylinder is the one where the short rod fits in off the clutch arm, pull rubber back and check for leaks and look directly up abobe the brake pedal and check there for leaks. check level of fluid in master cylinder and get someone to work the clutch while you check the lift outside on the clutch arm.

[Craig Black]

Ok, I have read a few other posts on here since and spoken to a fellow mini lover (a more experienced one) and he's pointed me in the right direction. I have checked the level of the fluid and that seems fine. I will try adjusting it tomorrow and if that isn't the fix then I will check the master cylinder. I can't see any leaks on anything so fingers crossed it'll just need adjusting!

 

Thanks again!

[Craig Black]

More experienced than me should I say!!

 

Thanks

[KernowCooper]

Seems odd that you drove it fine though and now it may need adjusting, minis are not like ones with a cable where you just wind up the adjuster nuts and leave some free play to keep the release bearing off the clutch fingers, yours if standard only has a adjuster at the top and overthrow nuts

 

 

This adjustment will normally only be necessary if the stop has been removed from the clutch end cover during overhaul.

Slacken the locknut and screw the plunger stop away from the housing to the limit of its travel . Get a second person to fully depress the clutch pedal, then screw the plunger stop up against the housing. Release the pedal and screw the stop in a further one flat of the stop which is approximately 0.007 - 0.10 in (0.20 - 0.25 mm). Hold the plunger stop and tighten the locknut.

Now pull the clutch release lever outwards away from the stop bolt on the clutch cover and measure the gap between the lever and the stop with a feeler gauge. This should be 0.020 in (0.5 mm). Adjust if necessary by slackening the stop bolt locknut and screwing the bolt in or out as necessary to obtain the correct clearance. Tighten the locknut and recheck the gap.

 

Thats the adjustment on the early non verto clutches

[Craig Black]

I will try this this evening, what sized spanners do I require?

Thanks again :)

[Captain Mainwaring]

Seems odd that you drove it fine though and now it may need adjusting, minis are not like ones with a cable where you just wind up the adjuster nuts and leave some free play to keep the release bearing off the clutch fingers, yours if standard only has a adjuster at the top and overthrow nuts

 

 

This adjustment will normally only be necessary if the stop has been removed from the clutch end cover during overhaul.

Slacken the locknut and screw the plunger stop away from the housing to the limit of its travel . Get a second person to fully depress the clutch pedal, then screw the plunger stop up against the housing. Release the pedal and screw the stop in a further one flat of the stop which is approximately 0.007 - 0.10 in (0.20 - 0.25 mm). Hold the plunger stop and tighten the locknut.

Now pull the clutch release lever outwards away from the stop bolt on the clutch cover and measure the gap between the lever and the stop with a feeler gauge. This should be 0.020 in (0.5 mm). Adjust if necessary by slackening the stop bolt locknut and screwing the bolt in or out as necessary to obtain the correct clearance. Tighten the locknut and recheck the gap.

 

Thats the adjustment on the early non verto clutches

 

 

Don't think it's adjustment - either the release has just broken up or the clutch slave is letting in air at a best guess

[KernowCooper]

Nor do I think its adjustment I just listed the above for the OP as a reference as to how the mini differs from a cable arrangement where a slack cable would not be lifting the clutch enough, If the slave is ok and the master cylinder I can see the "Wok" clutch cover coming off for investigation

[Craig Black]

I have just adjusted as above, I'm happy it's all set properly now but whilst being under the bonet and someone pumping the pedal I have noticed that the system needed bleeding. I bled it with loads of air coming out and this made a big difference, gears were engaging and the biting point was higher. However, when put in and out a few times the system filled back up with air, I think was due to the slave cylinder letting it in. I have ordered a new one and will let you know how it goes.

Thanks all :)

[KernowCooper]

So your on the right track, fit the slave and bleed through and see how it goes from there, if you still have problems then if the pipe from slave is ok then its clutch master cylinder seals

[Craig Black]

Yes, fingers crossed! 

 

Thanks :)

[Craig Black]

Hi all,

 

Changed the Slave cylinder this afternoon and it's working perfectly! 

 

thanks for your help :)

 

Craig