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#1 Clubby1275GT

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Posted 03 May 2006 - 09:25 AM

Right then, it seems u get on thing fixed and ten other things break!

1) Had new shoes and new brake lines at the back drums on saturday, all good but still no handbrake, think the cable is stretched as if u put it on, the cable is still slack but if u pull it from by the hub it locks solid??
new handbrake cable???

2) also, the back left hub doesnt spin freely very well at all, especially with the wheel on, whilst the back right will spin all day long!!, this is where i think the squeeking is coming from, it squeeks every half turn of the wheel!, does this mean bearing is shot??? if so what bearing do i need on a '79 GT with spacered rear drums?

3) AN THE LIST GOES ON!! after getting the shoes done, my awesome grooved discs and green stuff pads are terrible, bled the back ones after as usual and braking is now really poor, u have to practically stand on the poedal to get anything out of them, even then still not so good, cant be the discs or pads as theyre only 5 months old, when changing rear shoes do u have to bleed the front too??? any ideas what else it could be??

4) last but not least, when driving through the gears down a country lane i've noticed that when i get into 4th the clutch biting point suddenly jumps really high, feels like its on its last teathers, although its only 3 months old, this only seems to happen when doing like 4000rom in 3rd then put it into 4th.
ive bled it and it was still the same, then it fixed itself over night??

SORRY FOR THE INFO OVERLAOD BUT ANY HELP IS APPRECIATED!!

DAZ

#2 Clubby1275GT

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Posted 03 May 2006 - 10:52 AM

anybody??

#3 dan__wright

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Posted 03 May 2006 - 10:56 AM

1) adjust it

2) dont know

3) you need to bed them in.

4) dont know

#4 pikey7

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Posted 03 May 2006 - 11:02 AM

1. sounds like the cable. If you pull the "subframe cable" by hand, does that work? At least it maybe means that you only have to buy one instead of both cables.

2. could well be. how do they look? when you try to "rock" the hub on the spindle, does one side move more than the other? It does sound rather like a bearing issue though. Replace them with tapered roller bearings. search timken on minispares site and you'll find 'em.

3. yes, when changing one component on any wheel on the brakes, you need to bleed the lot to be sure. 70% of the time, it doesn't need it, but these are your brakes!. could also be a leaking system somewhere (master, caliper, hose, pipe, rear cylinder.). checkthem out visually first to see if there's any hints. are you losing fluid at all?

4. No idea!

#5 Sprocket

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Posted 03 May 2006 - 11:03 AM

Ok whats with the impatience

Sounds like the rear drums are out of adjustment, they need to be adjusted correctly. The hand brake cable will be fine as long as it is not frayed or snapped. Sounds like you also still have air in the system, for this I would advise buying the Gunsons Easi Blead kit. This is a resevoir that you fill with brake fluid attatch one of the hoses with an adapter to the brake master cylinder and the other to a spare tyre valve. this pressurises the brake system alowing you to go round the blead nipples and open them one by one letting the air escape by posative pressure.

EDIT: Oh and the squeek sounds like the wheel bearings and the gear clutch thing is in your mind, its the way it works, it will feal different in all gears due to the difference in torque transmitted


Failing all this if you still dont realy know what you are doing, it is in my honest opinion that you should take the car to a garage and let them fix it. The brakes are what stop the car and you killing yourself and others. Sounds serious because it is.

Edited by Mini Sprocket, 03 May 2006 - 11:07 AM.


#6 Jammy

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Posted 03 May 2006 - 11:04 AM

1. As Dan says, adjust them, have a look in the Haynes, theres a couple of different places to adjust.

2. Does sound like a bearing, can't say 100% for sure though. If you replace it and your using spacers, use Timken bearings.

3. Yes, you'll need to bleed the front as well. When you bleed brakes you need to bleed all four in the correct order (again detailed in Haynes). Adjusting the rear brakes will help as well.

4. Not sure about that either.


And I agree with MS, you need to wait a little longer than 1.5 hours for a reply!

#7 Clubby1275GT

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Posted 03 May 2006 - 12:23 PM

sorry guys for the inpatience, must have rubbed off onto me from the mrs, all this bloody now now now, me me me!!
i'll take it to a chap i no as its defo not right!!

in a way the cable feels slack, ive adjusted it insise the car by moving the two locking nuts right to the tightest end, the handbrake now only lifts 4 clicks max, but still doesnt hold the car.

The main thing im p*ssed about is the fact thatwhen u take ur car to a pro garage (less of the pro) like Tyre Sales, u expect them to know what theyre doing, it appears not, as he didnt adjust the shoes at all and i went back and said "oi, mate, no handbrake still" he just said, its stretched, u need a new one!
As for the front brakes, man the nipple on them is tiny, trying to find a spanner, or a sqaure head for that could be a pain!
just for reference any idea what the bleeding order os from wheel to wheel?? so the old way of opening and closing the nipple on the downpress and release is not the best way then?

#8 Jammy

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Posted 03 May 2006 - 12:51 PM

With the rear brakes, there are cams that push the shows onto the drum. Theres a square drive bolt that you screw in to push adjust the shoes closer or further from the drum, you need the proper square brake spanner though, anything else and you'll round the bolts off and they are NLA now.

#9 Clubby1275GT

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Posted 03 May 2006 - 12:54 PM

yeah i no the ones u mean, just seems weird that the handbrake wont go up no more, yet u can still pull the cable at the radius arm and itll tighten the shoes! theyre new cylinders at the back so should be fine, brand new last week.

#10 pikey7

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Posted 03 May 2006 - 01:02 PM

shoe adjustment is easy enough. Tighten the adjuster until the "just " touch and is a little difficult to turn by hand, then back off 1/4-1/2 a turn so they move freely (just). If the handbrake still won't function properly, then I guess it is indeed the cable thats snagged/frayed or stretched.


Duuuh. Me a ficko! Have you looked at the quadrant too? is it moving freely? If it's siezed, then it'll be giving you similar symptoms.

#11 Clubby1275GT

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Posted 03 May 2006 - 01:40 PM

quadrant??? hmm this is the part where i pretend to know what one of those is!!

#12 Jammy

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Posted 03 May 2006 - 01:48 PM

Tis this bit:

Posted Image

It goes on top of the radius arm, it can get seized and stops the cable sliding through it. Its quite easy to take off, clean up, stick some more grease in and put back on.

#13 Clubby1275GT

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Posted 03 May 2006 - 02:16 PM

pic not working Jam?

#14 Jammy

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Posted 03 May 2006 - 02:22 PM

:D tis ok for me? I get a different link....

Ok, its not working anymore! lol


Its this basically

#15 Sprocket

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Posted 03 May 2006 - 02:27 PM

Theres a square drive bolt that you screw in to push adjust the shoes closer or further from the drum, you need the proper square brake spanner though, anything else and you'll round the bolts off and they are NLA now.


Still available at MiniSpares

http://www.minispare....aspx?pid=33777




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