16 replies to this topic

[TopGearRules]

Hi there,

 

Unfortunately my mini failed its MOT on the rear fog lamp not working and a damaged CV joint gaiter on the drivers side. I've had a quick look underneath and found that the gaiters have both perished at the ends so they have split from the metal ties. I have ordered some new gaiters but I've been told that you have to replace the whole CV joint itself - is this true?? Also, a couple of ball joints and wheel bearings have slight play so I might as well replace them as well at the same time. Could I do all this on my own (im a novice at mechanics with some experience) or should I leave it to my professional mechanic?

 

Also, my rear fog lamp has a really annoying intermittent problem where it doesnt work on minute and starts working the next - where can this problem be coming from (checked all the fuses). 

 

I'm not falling out of love with my mini but ive spent soo much money over the two/three years of ownership (im only a student lol) that it makes me question if its financial viable to keep running. But anyhow, I need to get this all sorted first! 

 

Many thanks, Alex 

[Guess-Works.com]

With the fog light, check the two bullet connectors in the boot, these sometimes corrode and give the 'intermittent' failure, also the switch.

 

Regarding the CV, no you don't have to change the whole CV, but you will need to remove it from the drive shaft to get the boot on, unless you have a CV boot expander tool and stretchy boot.

[zony]

Two other problems with the fog lights are

 

1. Bulb holder corrosion. Either clean up the fittings or if too bad, get new light unit

2. Fog light switch. test unit with a meter. If duff, replace.

Edited by zony, 02 July 2013 - 05:52 PM.

[rally1380]

On the CV boot thing.....(bit late if you've ordered them) .....but buy the good quality ones that minispares do instead of the chepo ones. I fitted a cheapo one last year as mine had split and therefore failed the MOT.  I looked under the car a few weeks back and it has split again!!!!  Thats less than 12 months from a new gaiter.  My car is used for rallying so probably does get more wear than usual, but i do do hardly any miles, but i thought it would last longer than that.

 

I have since ordered the good one that minispares do and the quality difference is like chalk and cheese.  Highly recommend...as always...minispares come up trumps...plus TMF disco...thankyou.

[IainNeon91]

Trust me on this one bud, just changed mine for my MOT and it is a lot easier to just knock the CV joint off with a rubber mallet. It was also very easy to put back on 

[PaulColeman]

I'm not falling out of love with my mini but ive spent soo much money over the two/three years of ownership (im only a student lol) that it makes me question if its financial viable to keep running. But anyhow, I need to get this all sorted first! 

Classic cars are more expensive than a very bad cocaine habit. I have a Lotus Esprit and an e-type Jag and my daughter has a Mini, ask me how I know!

 

Paul.

Edited by PaulColeman, 02 July 2013 - 06:37 PM.

[TopGearRules]

On the CV boot thing.....(bit late if you've ordered them) .....but buy the good quality ones that minispares do instead of the chepo ones. I fitted a cheapo one last year as mine had split and therefore failed the MOT.  I looked under the car a few weeks back and it has split again!!!!  Thats less than 12 months from a new gaiter.  My car is used for rallying so probably does get more wear than usual, but i do do hardly any miles, but i thought it would last longer than that.

 

I have since ordered the good one that minispares do and the quality difference is like chalk and cheese.  Highly recommend...as always...minispares come up trumps...plus TMF disco...thankyou.

 

I think I have ordered the more superior gaitor from wood and pickett, so hopefully they will last a while before needing replacing!

 

Trust me on this one bud, just changed mine for my MOT and it is a lot easier to just knock the CV joint off with a rubber mallet. It was also very easy to put back on 

 

Is it easy enough to do on your own with basic tools (can you take the hub nut off with a ratchet)? I think I might just leave it for my mechanic since I need some ball joints and wheel bearings replaced at the same time (and also dont want to screw anything up!!).

 

With the fog lamp I've ruled out the switch or the lamp its self (both working fine)... it looks like it could be the wiring somewhere :/

 

Thanks to everyone for the help!

[TopGearRules]

 

I'm not falling out of love with my mini but ive spent soo much money over the two/three years of ownership (im only a student lol) that it makes me question if its financial viable to keep running. But anyhow, I need to get this all sorted first! 

Classic cars are more expensive than a very bad cocaine habit. I have a Lotus Esprit and an e-type Jag and my daughter has a Mini, ask me how I know!

 

Paul.

 

 

Are you sure you dont own fort knox ahaha

[TopGearRules]

With the fog light, check the two bullet connectors in the boot, these sometimes corrode and give the 'intermittent' failure, also the switch.

 

Regarding the CV, no you don't have to change the whole CV, but you will need to remove it from the drive shaft to get the boot on, unless you have a CV boot expander tool and stretchy boot.

 

Thanks for clearing that up, unfortunately I've ordered a like for like replacement boot so the drive shaft will need to come off. 

[AVV IT]

Just a thought for next time, classic mini CV boots are a notoriously common cause for MOT failure, as are ball joints too for that matter. So I always take the front wheels off and check these things over before each MOT. The chances of a classic mini not having a problem with at least one of them, on at least one side, each year, is fairly slim in my experience (and I don't tend to buy cheap parts either).

[Guess-Works.com]

I have one in for repair at the moment...

 

2 x steering rack gaiters

1 x CV boot

Indicators not working

Hazards not working

Fog light not working

Hole in the Foot well

Hole in the Sill

and apparently a suspect rear subframe ( wire brush and underseal will fix that )

 

Owner was a little worried...

 

I just said, that's about normal for a mini...

[tiger99]

If you are greasing the suspension regularly (original recommendation was every 2000 miles if I remember correctly), you should be able to spot split gaiters at the same time, and fix them before dirt ingress and grease loss ruins the CVs, rather than wait till MOT time. Greasing takes about 5 minutes to do all 8 nipples, 6 front and 2 rear. Front wheels on full lock, lie on ground, preferably on old piece of carpet. Easy. Other bits in the area such as ball joints need checking every 6000 miles, at every service, with the wheels jacked up.

 

I get the general impression from some discussions here that many Mini owners never grease their suspension. I base that mainly on the number of people with upper arm bearing problems. Those, if lubricated, are usually good for 150k miles or more. Sad, because they end up spending more money needlessly.

[AVV IT]

If you are greasing the suspension regularly (original recommendation was every 2000 miles if I remember correctly), you should be able to spot split gaiters at the same time, and fix them before dirt ingress and grease loss ruins the CVs, rather than wait till MOT time. Greasing takes about 5 minutes to do all 8 nipples, 6 front and 2 rear. Front wheels on full lock, lie on ground, preferably on old piece of carpet. Easy. Other bits in the area such as ball joints need checking every 6000 miles, at every service, with the wheels jacked up.

 

I get the general impression from some discussions here that many Mini owners never grease their suspension. I base that mainly on the number of people with upper arm bearing problems. Those, if lubricated, are usually good for 150k miles or more. Sad, because they end up spending more money needlessly.

 

That's all very reliant on your annual mileage though. Like many classic mini owners my annual mileage is very low, particularly as it's spread across two minis. If I were to only check these things at the recommended 2000 or 6000 mile intervals, then they wouldn't even get checked annually. I agree with where you are coming from though, a classic mini requires constant maintenance and attention, which if you're doing regularly, then there really shouldn't be that many surprises come MOT time.

[tiger99]

I see your point about the mileage. Not sure if I could force myself to keep it as low as that! They are just so addictive to drive, even the low performance versions. We will see when I get my next Mini. Need a garage first, and that is proving to be slightly problematic, as the space beside the house would hold a Mini, or two end to end, but is too narrow to be useful for serious maintenance. I have plans to move....

 

Maybe low mileage users could make a point of having a quick look underneath every 3 months or so, to avoid nasty surprises? It has to be worth 10 minutes. (Yes I know, finding 10 minutes these days is not as easy as it once was.) Some things, like the brake fluid change interval (18 months recommended) don't change with mileage, and a quick grease would do no harm either, even if not necessary based on mileage. Other things, such as applying more Waxoyl, want to be done every autumn, again regardless of mileage.

[Guess-Works.com]

Service intervals were always 6000 miles or 6 months, so saying you only do 2k per annum is no defence, as it should be done every 6 months at a minimum.