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Fitting Doors


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#1 LittleMissMini

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Posted 04 May 2006 - 05:05 PM

Hi :proud:

I think when my Mini was away getting restored they haven't fitted the doors correctly. When I shut them they click in but don't sit right:

Posted Image

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Can I adjust this by loosening the 4 nuts behind the A-Panel and getting the doors lined up as they should be and then tightening the nuts back up again, or is there more to it than that??

Thanks :-

#2 Bungle

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Posted 04 May 2006 - 05:15 PM

Can I adjust this by loosening the 4 nuts behind the A-Panel and getting the doors lined up as they should be and then tightening the nuts back up again, or is there more to it than that??



yes you can also use spacers between the hinges and the A pannel to move the door

#3 LittleMissMini

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Posted 04 May 2006 - 05:22 PM

Thanks Bungle, are the spacers already there or are they something I buy? Do they then remain in place or do you take them away again?

#4 The Matt

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Posted 04 May 2006 - 05:50 PM

It looks like it may be just the strikers that need adjusting to me?? :proud:

#5 LittleMissMini

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Posted 04 May 2006 - 05:54 PM

Thanks Mini Mad, more info though please, where are these adjusted, how do I do it?

When the Mini was restored the old original doors were binned and two doors from a newer (1995 I think) Mini fitted. The old doors lined up fine, but I understand each one is different because of how they were produced in the factory etc. They are fine at the top (although the Passenger side seems to sit a bit too far into the door frame) it's as they get to the bottom a gap appears, the gap is not like that all the way down.

#6 The Matt

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Posted 04 May 2006 - 06:10 PM

OK, this is from poor memory as I haven't done this for years and years, and I can't remember what it looks like etc:

Could be several issues combined so

1. If the front of the door is not hanging correctly when closed, it may mean that the hinge bolts need slacking off (the four behind the A panel). I usually just slacken them off slightly, then move the door by hand, with the door closed and the striker pin at the rear of the door removed from the B pillar (back of door frame). Once you have the door in the correct position, you can tighten the four nuts back up and open and close the door to make sure it doesn't foul anywhere.

2. If the back of the door does not close fully, there is a plate on the B pillar with a striker pin on it, I think there are 2 screws on it which you have to slacken off, this will allow you to position the striker pin correctly.

3. If the door is too close to the A panel, or two far away, you can add or remove the dor shims that Bungle has mentioned. Usually there will be some already there. You can also alter the angle of the door by adding or removing shims from the top or bottom hinge, as necessary.

4. Another issue is that if you have had new door seals fitted, you may need to re-adjust once they have settled in. In some cases it is difficult to close the door with new seals (especially aftermarket ones).


Again, feel free to correct me, as it has been yonks since I did it and I may be totally wrong! :proud:

#7 LittleMissMini

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Posted 04 May 2006 - 06:18 PM

Very thorough advice, thank you :proud:

I'll let you know how I get on, will probably be early next week, as I work weekends :(

The door seems to line up correctly with the A Panel etc, it just seem to be too far in at the top and too far out at the bottom, I'm just using the old door seals as they seem fine.

Thanks again Mini Mad :-

#8 The Matt

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Posted 04 May 2006 - 06:24 PM

If it is too far in at the top and too far out at the bottom, then it will probably be a case of slacking the hinges off and having a fettle!


Matt :proud:

#9 Dan

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Posted 04 May 2006 - 07:50 PM

Since you were asking about the drop glass seals, do you have the glass in the doors yet? I can't quite tell from those photos but they look to have no glass.

Don't try to align empty doors, the drop glass, winder mechanism, locks and catches weigh a lot and drag the rear of the door down about 1/4" to 3/8".

When adjusting the striker plate, don't remove the screws completely. If you do the plate will fall down inside the B pillar and you will have a very hard time getting it out. There is a blanking plug on the rear of the B pillar that can be removed so you can see what's going on inside the post if you need to.

The striker should be aligned so that the door closes nicely onto it. It should be used to hold the door in against the body but not used to lift the door up or push it down, this is adjusted using the hinges and shims (and a hydraulic jack in the door frame on the production line!). The striker and latch will wear out fast if they are used to align the door vertically.

#10 Sprocket

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Posted 04 May 2006 - 08:55 PM

It would be a good idea to align the door without the seal fitted, and then re check when the seal is fitted

#11 LittleMissMini

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Posted 05 May 2006 - 06:02 PM

Thanks :proud:

I haven't put the drop glass seals in the doors yet. The glass is inside the door, the window was just wound down thats all. I'll make sure everything is in place before I try to make them sit straight, and will take the actual door seals out too :-

#12 Dan

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Posted 07 May 2006 - 06:51 PM

Umm, you'll be taking the glass out again then. It's almost impossible to get the drop glass seals into the doors with the glass fitted as it runs right down inside the door to the bottom of the window channel. I suppose you could try fitting it high and sliding it down, but do make sure that it's in the right way around before you do or you'll be pulling it all out again.

Edited by Dan, 07 May 2006 - 06:53 PM.


#13 LittleMissMini

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Posted 08 May 2006 - 10:38 AM

Thanks for the heads up Dan, I'll bear it in mind that I'll most likely have to take the glass out to fit them :thumbsup:

#14 Dan

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Posted 08 May 2006 - 05:31 PM

It's probably best, normally if you try to push and pull the seal about with the glass inside the groove then the seal rips somewhere and they're pretty expensive.




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