5 replies to this topic

[gills85]

I'm about to change both upper and lower balljoints and need to know how to work out how many shims I'll need. How will I know when I've fitted enough? any help will be greatly appreciated.

[Fast Ivan]

Easier to cut and paste the manual than type it myself:

 

7 Before final reassembly of the balljoint, it is

necessary to determine the correct number

and size of shims required to provide a snug

fit of the ball-pin with the domed retaining nut

fully tightened. This is done in the following

way.

8 Place the lockwasher in position and refit

the grease nipple. Now place all the available

shims over the lockwasher and then refit the

ball-pin seat, the ball-pin and domed retaining

nut. Assemble all the parts without grease at

this stage, and if working on the lower balljoint

do not fit the ball-pin seat tension spring.

9 Fully tighten the retaining nut and then check

the movement of the ball-pin. With all the

available shims fitted, it should be quite slack

with considerable up-and-down movement.

10 Using a trial and error process, remove

the retaining nut, take out a shim and then

refit the nut and recheck the movement of the

ballpin. Continue doing this until it is possible

to move the ball-pin in all directions, without

binding, but with slight resistance to

movement being felt.

11 Dismantle the joint again, lubricate all the

parts with general purpose grease and finally

reassemble the joint. If working on the lower

assembly, the ball-pin seat tension spring

should now be fitted (see illustrations).

12 Tighten the retaining nut fully, check that

the ball-pin still moves freely with only slight

resistance, and if satisfactory bend up the

lockwasher to secure the retaining nut (see

illustrations).

13 Refit the rubber dust cover to the balljoint

(see illustration) and then refit the swivel hub

as described in Section 3

[gills85]

Jesus!!!! Thanks very much. I must admit I was expecting a shorter answer, but thanks for finding the answer for me. Sounds easy enough and I'll give it a go next weekend. Thanks again>

[sonikk4]

You will need to lap the ball joints in. This is best done with some fine grinding paste. Basically this is bedding them in and will also ensure they do not bind.

 

Have a look at this thread

 

http://www.theminifo...hat-is-lapping/

[adam_93rio]

Also, don't use a 'trial and error' method. Use 'trial and improvement'
If you make an error every time they'll never get done haha

[tiger99]

Ensure that they are not too tight, which is dangerous, as fatigue fracture will occur some time later.

 

Edit: I assume the quote is from Haynes, which does not contradict that, or disagree with the Rover manual, but I prefer to work to the Rover manual.

 

The official Rover manual requires between "no nip" and an end float of 3 thou, with another 3 thou shim (the thinnest) to be added if in doubt. The latest version of the manual adds more warnings about not being too tight. I have always set them up in accordance with that, slightly looser than some suggest, and found that they last a very long time if done carefully, but I do aim for well under 3 thou end float, while still moving freely.

 

Lapping will increase the clearance slightly, but don't use it to make adjustments, just to get a good working surface. If the shimming does not get the clearance close enough, you can increase clearance by taking the ball seat out and lapping the back (flat side) on a carpenter's oil stone, or you can decrease clearance by lapping the flat face of the ball nut (the bit that sits against the shims).

 

There were a few idiots here who were advocating setting them up tighter, but they have been quiet lately. Perhaps they all crashed due to ball joint failure?

Edited by tiger99, 15 July 2013 - 12:17 PM.