12 replies to this topic

[Jmccrary]

Hello....so been having issues with the primary gears and wondering why they are binding...
Looking at the gear setup from mini spares

http://www.minispare...n.aspx?2~14~122

Gears 8 and 12 will not rotate when I put the flywheel cover back on.

Anyone know why it's binding?

[GraemeC]

When you put the flywheel cover or the drop gear casing on (the one that needs to go on before the flywheel)?

If the casing, I'd guess you've not measured the end float (sounds like you have less than zero) and put the correct shims either side of the idler to suit.

[GraemeC]

That wouldn't lock up the idler and input gear though, but would stop you fitting the c washer.

Edited by GraemeC, 25 July 2013 - 07:55 PM.

[Cooperman]

If the latest manganese-bronze new bushes have just been fitted they need a slightly larger running clearance than the old phos-bronze ones. Richy at Mini Spares in Harrogate can tell you about this. If the manganese-bronze ones are run with insufficient running clearance the primary gear seizes up on the crankshaft

[GraemeC]

Reading his post, he hasn't got as far as fitting the primary - he says the idler & input gear are locking up, no mention of the primary (other than mis-describing the whole drop gear set as 'the primary gears')

[Jmccrary]

Reading his post, he hasn't got as far as fitting the primary - he says the idler & input gear are locking up, no mention of the primary (other than mis-describing the whole drop gear set as 'the primary gears')

Well...I have but the primary gear on before, but you are correct with he idler gear...I am going to replace the gasket tomorrow and I hope this fixes the issue...if not, reshim....and with the misdescribing the drop gears...well I was going off mini spares as the primary gear train lol....thanks mates for the help...more to follow

[GraemeC]

No mind reading, just looking at the evidence!

Use the the genuine gasket from Minispares - others are generally too thin.

I take it the engine and box are together & it's too late to measure the end float by the usual method?
You could do it with a dti mounted on the ending the crank, measuring the movement of the idler through the casing I suppose....

[Jmccrary]

Graeme,
I am thinking you are a mind reader now! Yes the motor and gearbox are mated, but I maybe able to still get the feeler gauge in. I may have to run out to DNS Classics to get the gasket as being short on time.

Thanks for your help as well!

[Jmccrary]

Lol...depends on what you call fitted...

[Jmccrary]

Lol...depends on what you call fitted...

 
Exactly this is the problem when people, don't post there question that well...........or don't give all the information..........

Maybe because i have fitted it about 10 times...but when i put the question up it was referring not fitted at this time...maybe its a proble, with people not asking for more information and just assuming...

[stevede]

I have had this same issue. It may not be the problem in your case, but hope you don't mind me posting for future readers who find this post.

 

I had changed the bearing in the transfer case and it seems I hadn't put it home quite far enough, so that when I tightened up the case to check the clearance, (with the gasket) it bound solid.

 

Tapped the bearing a little further in and the issue was solved (still needed to sort out the end float obviously)

 

Have you changed the bearing? May be worth checking if you have

 

Regards

 

Steve

[GraemeC]

You weren't though were you. You were having the last say as always. Only this time you were having a dig because you'd failed to read well enough into his post to gather the info to help the chap and so you resorted to trying to belittle him.


OP - hopefully changing the gasket will cure the problem. If not then......

Remove the gasket completely and reattach the casing with the bolts into the gearbox casing only, until it is just nipped up onto the idler - don't tighten the bolts down at all, finger tight only (assuming the threads are nice and clean/easy).
Now measure the gap where the gasket should go.
Subtract from that the gasket thickness.
Now add the remainder to the required end float of the idler (can't remember what it is, you'll need to look it up).
That final figure is how much oversize the idler thrusts are in total. Measure them and compare them to what is available in alternative sizes to work out what you need.

Obviously this needs you to have feelers and a pair of verniers of some description!

[Jmccrary]

You weren't though were you. You were having the last say as always. Only this time you were having a dig because you'd failed to read well enough into his post to gather the info to help the chap and so you resorted to trying to belittle him.


OP - hopefully changing the gasket will cure the problem. If not then......

Remove the gasket completely and reattach the casing with the bolts into the gearbox casing only, until it is just nipped up onto the idler - don't tighten the bolts down at all, finger tight only (assuming the threads are nice and clean/easy).
Now measure the gap where the gasket should go.
Subtract from that the gasket thickness.
Now add the remainder to the required end float of the idler (can't remember what it is, you'll need to look it up).
That final figure is how much oversize the idler thrusts are in total. Measure them and compare them to what is available in alternative sizes to work out what you need.

Obviously this needs you to have feelers and a pair of verniers of some description!

Graeme,

For my issue it was the gasket...replaced and now working fine.  I do not wish anyone to have to figure this part out again!! 

 

If after replacing the gasket and still too tight, try to reshim the idler gear......this video showed me how to do it right and may help others out!!