14 replies to this topic

[Camel]

Got my rear subframe off and tried to clean all the rust off myself but I think I'm going to die of old age before I manage it. It seems reasonably solid to me but then again I don't really know much about metalwork and what not. 

 

 

 

 

 

I'm guessing it looks fine but want to check before I find somewhere to get it sand blasted ready for painting.

[Frisco]

Doesn't look too bad at all

[Mini-Mad-Craig]

Surface rust, a drill with a wire brush attachment and about half an hour 

[sonikk4]

At least sandblasting will show up any really areas of rust. It's starting to delaminate between the layers meaning rust is sandwiched between.

I have seen worse and wil probably last a while longer but dress out the dents on the rear cross section. I would paint this rather than powdercoat as the overall condition is not good enough.

[Cooperman]

Wire brush and sand down all areas you can reach. Treat any solid areas with a rusty appearance with a rust inhibitor, use a quality brush-on primer followed by two good coats of chassis paint. 

Wayoyl or similar prevention treatment to all hard to get at areas before re-assembly.

It will then last for years.

[tiger99]

That subframe needs serious attention, as the critical seam weld between one of the side members and the front cross member (3rd picture) seems to be seperating. I can't be sure, but it looks as if some of that seam weld had been added because the frame is non-genuine and the spot welds had been skimped, which is very common. The weld has possibly not fused with the crossmember at all, due to dirt or improper technique. I think I also see non-standard plug welds (4th picture), perhaps for the same reason.

 

All of that can be fixed, once it is fully derusted, if it is basically solid.

[sonikk4]

That subframe needs serious attention, as the critical seam weld between one of the side members and the front cross member (3rd picture) seems to be seperating. I can't be sure, but it looks as if some of that seam weld had been added because the frame is non-genuine and the spot welds had been skimped, which is very common. The weld has possibly not fused with the crossmember at all, due to dirt or improper technique. I think I also see non-standard plug welds (4th picture), perhaps for the same reason.
 
All of that can be fixed, once it is fully derusted, if it is basically solid.

Tiger I have a new old stock Rover subframe which had those welds bizarrely enough so it may well have come like that. It does not now though as its getting seam welded before it goes away for galvanising.

I have to say a lot of the original factory welds are very ugly but as it was mass produced well what can I say. All of these have been done to a much higher standard.

[Camel]

I've had another go at cleaning it up myself but it isn't going to happen. It's going to take far too long to do so I'm getting quotes for sand/bead/whateverblasting and then I'll take it from there.

 

Unless I get stupid quotes then I'll get a new subframe. What would a decent price be?

[sonikk4]

As a pointer we had a rear subframe plus a load of other bits blasted and powder coated for less than £100. The blasting accounted for just under half of the price.

[phil hill]

That subframe needs serious attention, as the critical seam weld between one of the side members and the front cross member (3rd picture) seems to be seperating. I can't be sure, but it looks as if some of that seam weld had been added because the frame is non-genuine and the spot welds had been skimped, which is very common. The weld has possibly not fused with the crossmember at all, due to dirt or improper technique. I think I also see non-standard plug welds (4th picture), perhaps for the same reason.

 

All of that can be fixed, once it is fully derusted, if it is basically solid.

Tiger, I hear your concerns but think a lot is down to the camera angles. I've seen frames with welding a lot worse than this, but still secure.  I'm sure the OP will address any obvious broken welds once he's cleaned it all up, but I think this frame looks in pretty good nick to be honest.

 

Phil.

[tiger99]

I agree that it is often very difficult to tell the real condition of anything from photos. But that weld does seem very peculiar! Still fixable with minimal difficulty, and if it were mine I would possibly think about galvanising once it had been tidied up, as there is no other real way of getting rust out of the seams and getting good corrosion protection in. A chemical strip and E-coat by someone like SPL would probably cost as much and not be so good.

 

But it will be good for a few years at least with just a decent clean and paint, with plenty of Waxoyl.

[rally515]

I agree that it is often very difficult to tell the real condition of anything from photos. But that weld does seem very peculiar! Still fixable with minimal difficulty, and if it were mine I would possibly think about galvanising once it had been tidied up, as there is no other real way of getting rust out of the seams and getting good corrosion protection in. A chemical strip and E-coat by someone like SPL would probably cost as much and not be so good.

 

But it will be good for a few years at least with just a decent clean and paint, with plenty of Waxoyl.

 

 

I wouldn't advise galvanising an old rusty subframe to be honest,especially if theres rust clearly in the seams, before dipping in the vat they require you to sandblast the part to be dipped to get rid of paint, rust, grease ect... and its completly not viable to split the seams and clear them out as best as possible as they'll close up due to the heat and either leave a bare metal cavity or you will be left with a chunk of galv in them and unable to close them back up with hammer and dolly or similar like you'd do in bodywork terms.

 

Just a few niggles i though id address from having had this done before, in the pictures i'l put below you can see the seams "Popping":

 

Something that you'll have to consider also if finding some UNF taps to re-do the threads, seems there arnt many companies selling imperial:

 

Here you should be able to see the seem area:

[rally515]

Can i just add to my above post in saying that im in no way detracting from people sandblasting and galvanising there subframes as i,ve had some galved test pieces out side for around 6 months now, one is stood against the kitchen wall and the other is in a small tub that i often re-fill with salt, rust scrapings and whatever i think might break through and destroy the coating but i can report that nothing apart from green slush has appeared after this time, a simple wipe of the finger over it and its still shining underneith.

 

Heres a picture of them:

[Camel]

If it lasts 3 or 4 years I'll be happy then I can buy a new subframe if required. Quite possibly what I'll be doing with the front when I get around to it.

 

I'm just getting quotes to have it sandblasted and then my brother can weld the dodgy looking parts which aren't as bad as it looks in the pics but a touching up some of the rougher bits of welding will do no harm.

 

Then I'll be getting Kurust in all of the parts that can't be cleaned. I know it won't cure the rust but it should slow it down a bit before using red oxide, plenty of Hammerite and waxoyl.

 

Thanks for all of the advice as always! :)

[rally515]

Sounds like a good plan Camel  

Wish i could have bought new subframes haha

 

 Cliff