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New Engine Build Oil Pressure Problem


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#1 tadleysimon

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Posted 08 August 2013 - 06:19 PM

So I've rebuilt my 1100 engine. I took a lot or care to make sure all the galleries where pluged with new brass plugs. And that the o ring between the box and block is fitted.

I've primed the pump and turned the engine over with the bolt out. When you do this oil pours out.

I've checked the oil pressure relief and it seems fine.

But when I'm cold cranking. The light just won't go out. How long should it take?

I did start the engine but it only run for a max of about 15 seconds. I have it a little rev and the light went out for a split second but it come back on when at idle.

Any ideas? Or have I just not cold cranked it enough?

#2 jaydee

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Posted 08 August 2013 - 06:25 PM

first, dont use the light but use a proper gauge, then to prime the pump you have to spin the engine backwards so it sucks the oil.



#3 tadleysimon

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Posted 08 August 2013 - 06:30 PM

I've primed the pump. By turning the engine backwards and I'm sure it's working properly. I won't have a gauge until after the weekend but surely the light would go out anyway?

#4 jaydee

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Posted 08 August 2013 - 06:35 PM

Oil wont pour out if primed turning engine backwards, also dont forget to fill up the oil filter aswell



#5 tadleysimon

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Posted 08 August 2013 - 06:46 PM

No. I mean I took the bolt out and turned it over forwards on the starter. To prove the oil was pumping.

And I filled the filter too.

#6 KernowCooper

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Posted 08 August 2013 - 08:59 PM

What oil pressure switch do you have standard 2-5psi or the 22psi one? if the later then it will crank over a few turns before it goes out, I'd get the gauge installed you may just have a faulty switch?



#7 tadleysimon

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Posted 08 August 2013 - 09:10 PM

i cant for the like of me remember which switch i put in, either way though. its not going out. so even if it was the 22 psi one. it should go out on cranking.

 

the fact that it went out with a very gentle rev it worrying me as no pressure on idle is normally the big end bearings. its had all new shells but im just worrying now thinking i must have done something wrong. i just cant for the life of me think what...



#8 KernowCooper

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Posted 08 August 2013 - 09:18 PM

Is this the very first start ? I'd get the gauge in and fire up and see what it reads then before worrying



#9 tadleysimon

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Posted 08 August 2013 - 09:56 PM

Yeah this is the very first start. Like I said I did fire it up for about 15 seconds as give it a gentle rev. But with the oil light on I just killed it straight away. I'll get a gauge fitted but I'm not holding much hope now. It's a brand new pressure switch too.

Like I said. I just any think what I could have done wrong. If I'd have missed a gallery plug or a o ring. Surely the pump wouldn't even be picking anything up?

#10 KernowCooper

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Posted 08 August 2013 - 10:20 PM

The pump obviously can suck oil your fraid you have problems on the outlet of the pump and not building pressure.

 

Did you have the crankshaft reground and new sheel bearings to suit then?



#11 tadleysimon

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Posted 09 August 2013 - 11:40 AM

This is what I'm wondering now. The machine shop said the gave it a light grind. This is the first time I've built an engine and I (naively) fitted standard shells, assuming they where correct.

Would I have been able to feel that they where wrong? The crank felt solid and span freely at the same time.

And assuming this is the issue. How do I make sure I get the right shells next time? I'm assuming I Measure the crank with a micrometer, but then how do I tell what ones I need?

#12 KernowCooper

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Posted 09 August 2013 - 01:25 PM

yikes I just read your post- A light grind? I would ring the machine shop again and ask exactly what they did as any material ground off the crank journals will increase the journal to shell bearing clearance and thus be outside of the specification and affect oil pressure.

 

Normally what happens is the machine shop regrind the crankshaft 10/20/30thou undersize and supply the bearings to suit or give you a spec sheet and you buy the shall bearings to suit.

 

I fear your going to be taking the engine out and you need to see from the W/S Manual what the standard size the journals were and then measure yours if the are ground 10thou undersize of the original then you need bearings of +10thou and so on

 

Ring the machine shop and find out the exact amount they took off in the light grind? there is a possibility they have indeed done a light grind in which case you could be unable to use standard shells and not +10thous either.

 

Ring them up and get the information and then come back and post what they said and one of us will be able to tell you if you give us the engine number/type tell you what the journals were when it was standard.

 

Just read your first post its a 1100 engine so a engine number starting 10..

 

Main bearing journal diameter:
85H, 99H* and 10H . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44.46 to 44.47 mm

 

Minimum main bearing journal regrind diameter:
85H, 99H* and 10H . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 43.45 mm

 

 

Main bearing running clearance:
85H, 99H* and 10H . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.025 to 0.068 mm

 

 

Big-end bearing journal diameter:
85H, 99H* and 10H . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41.28 to 41.29 mm

 

 

Minimum big-end journal regrind diameter:
85H, 99H* and 10H . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40.27 mm

 

 

Big-end bearing running clearance:
85H, 99H* and 10H . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.025 to 0.063 mm

 

 

You'll be able from the above to see whats in spec after speaking to the machine shop.


Edited by KernowCooper, 09 August 2013 - 01:36 PM.


#13 mossy2a

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Posted 09 August 2013 - 03:07 PM

It's not sounding good regarding the crank grinding. Only 2 weeks ago I had a smoker probl ony newly built engine, I too had the oil filter full and the pump definately pump oil when I checked during the build. What I found helped was to remove the oil filter pipe from the block and put some oil in there using a syringe. A few turns later and I had 70psi ish. I put it down to an air lock.

You could always try this and see how you go.

You could buy sond plastic argue and measure your bearing gaps but it still means taking the engine apart.

#14 KernowCooper

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Posted 09 August 2013 - 03:12 PM

The oil pressure gauge will reveal all when fitted but seems like theres not much information on what the light grind to the crank actually took off?



#15 KernowCooper

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Posted 09 August 2013 - 03:13 PM

I hope I'm wrong but I can see this coming apart again.






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