10 replies to this topic

[Andrew O]

I have a 1989 Rover Mini 30 998

It was at the MOT station on Saturday and had been ticking over for around 10 minutes, the revs then gradually began dropping and the engine eventually cut out. Went to restart it and realised the battery was dead.
I have not had it ticking over this long before as its been on my driver for around 2 years and I've had no need.
I then fitted a brand new type 075 battery and tested the volts with the engine of, it was around 12. I then turned the engine on gave it a bit of rev and tested again. The volts did not increase at all and when the lights turned on they actually dropped a bit.
I have a upgraded 70AMP alternator fitted which was new around a year ago ( The car has not been on the road ) and I am 99.9% it is wired correctly.
I also tried fitting the old alternator and that didn't charge the battery either.
What are the chances of having 2 duff alternators ? One of them being new.

Would really appreciate help here as I have an MOT retest on Tuesday and I don't want the same to happen.

Andrew.

[Andrew O]

Oh and might I add that the battery warning light does work on my dash when ignition Is on but it goes of immediately when engine is running.

[IainStallard]

Check the engine earths and the battery earth. Also is the charging light working? As in on when the ignition is on and engine off, and then turns off when the engine is started?

[IainStallard]

Check the engine earths and the battery earth. Also is the charging light working? As in on when the ignition is on and engine off, and then turns off when the engine is started?

Edit: didn't notice charging light...

[Andrew O]

The engine earth strap is new and in good condition and the same goes for the battery earth strap ...

Andrew

[jaydee]

Another faulty brand new 70A alternator has been reported few months ago

Give it a quick check, FAQs are your friend

http://www.theminifo...ng-basic-tests/

http://www.theminifo...vehicle-earths/

http://www.theminifo...charging-facts/

[Andrew O]

Thanks for that I shall take another look tomorrow.

Andrew

[spaulwill]

check the voltage on the large brown lead on the solenoid, tjis will be the charging circuit. you said the ignition light works but is it on constantly. there is a thin wire Brown/yellow. this feeds the alternator and allows it to charge i beleive you should have 12.2 volts minimum otherwise it wont 'excite' the alternator. check the fuseon this leg this runs to the ignition light too.

[KernowCooper]

If you run through the tests in jaydees post above it will highlight where the fault is just do the tests on the alternator and dig deeper if necessary

[Captain Mainwaring]

check the voltage on the large brown lead on the solenoid, tjis will be the charging circuit. you said the ignition light works but is it on constantly. there is a thin wire Brown/yellow. this feeds the alternator and allows it to charge i beleive you should have 12.2 volts minimum otherwise it wont 'excite' the alternator. check the fuseon this leg this runs to the ignition light too.

 

 

If his ignition light is on...it should mean that he is getting the excitation voltage on the "ind" pin. There isn't a separate supply to the light and the alternator, it is one and the same and the alternator gets it's feed through the ignition light directly. 

It's easy to check - ign on light on.....unplug the alternator with engine stopped, the light will go off, if it doesn't then you have an earth fault....if it doesn't come on, the either the lamp has failed or the fuse has popped.

[Andrew O]

Massive thanks to everyone that has helped I really do appreciate it.
Turns out ( To cut a long story short ) that the alternator wasn't wired to the solenoid so sorted that out and I am notw getting 13.5 to 14 volts at the battery with the engine on and under load.

Thanks again

Andrew