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Scuttle & Dash Rail Replacement


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#1 Bell-nose

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Posted 11 August 2013 - 09:35 PM

Hi All,   Today i took the window out of my 98 cooper as the scuttle needs replacing all the way along the dash. As many will know once i took the window out the rot has also attacked the upper dash rail. Although this is not bad it will need replacing.   I've been having a look on the forums but can't seem to find any sort of guide for cutting and replacing the upper dash rail.   Anyone any ideas or a guide they can share?     Any help would be much appreciated. :dontgetit:   I

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Edited by Bell-nose, 11 August 2013 - 09:43 PM.


#2 Ben_O

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Posted 12 August 2013 - 01:10 AM

If you are going to be replacing the dash rail and the scuttle because of rot on the joining edges then the chances are the top of the bulkhead will be rotten too as is the case with my Mini. the dash rail and scuttle are reasonably straightforward to replace.

 

I would remove the scuttle first by drilling all of the spot welds along the bottom of the screen aperture carefully making sure you only drill the thickness of the scuttle itself. The issue with replacing the scuttle is that you will most likely have to remove the wings too as it would be tricky to do it with them in place.

Once the spot welds are drilled then you will need to cut the screen frame both sides as low as you can so the scuttle can be removed.

With the scuttle out of the way, you will be able to check the condition of the top of the fire wall/bulkhead flange. if it is sound, then you will be ok to go ahead and remove the top dash rail, this is done by drilling the spot welds along the top of the dash rail from the inside of the car all the way along the screen aperture, again being carefull to only drill the thickness of the dash rail.

Once the spot welds are drilled, you will need to carefully grind out the seam welds on either end where it meets the windscreen aperture boxing plate and the door frame boxing plate. You could instead cut most of the dash rail out as close to the seam welds as you can then grind them flat once the rail is out.

 

It is quite difficult to explain clearly how to do this but if what I have written is unclear at all then just ask and ill try to help or I expect others will chip in with ideas or other techniques.

I have added a couple of pics. The first one shows where the seam welds are on the dash rail which need grinding off. and the second one shows the bulkhead with the scuttle removed. As you can see my bulkhead is rotten on the top corner but it is not uncommon for the whole top to be rotten.

Hope yours isn't!!

 

Hope this helps.

 

Ben

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Edited by Ben_O, 12 August 2013 - 01:11 AM.


#3 Bell-nose

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Posted 18 August 2013 - 07:50 PM

 

 

I would remove the scuttle first by drilling all of the spot welds along the bottom of the screen aperture carefully making sure you only drill the thickness of the scuttle itself. 

 

 

Thanks Ben,

 

The only thing i'm not sure on is drilling the welds, i've taken the wings off with a 5mm drill bit today and drilled through a few times. would an 3 mm be better on the the scuttle?

 

Thanks for the above thats very helpful. :)



#4 sonikk4

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Posted 18 August 2013 - 07:54 PM

Its down to the amount of pressure you use on the drill. I normally use a 1/4" Cobalt drill bit (not a spot weld drill bit) and a spot weld splitter made from a industrial hack saw blade. Not drilled through using this method.But i have been using drills all my working life.

 

If you are not using a spot weld drill bit then i would suggest purchasing one if you are not happy using a standard twist drill bit.



#5 Ben_O

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Posted 19 August 2013 - 06:40 AM

I use the Wurth Cobalt spot weld drill bits. I have the 6mm ones and 8mm ones. I tend to use the 8mm one to cut spot welds on panels I am removing to replace as the hole left in the scrap panel does not matter and at least with the 8mm bit you can be sure you cut through the whole spot weld.  I use the 6mm bit to drill spot welds on panels that I am removing to refit as you are not left with loads of huge holes to weld up. you can simply plug weld the panel back on using the 6mm holes you have created by drilling the welds. The benefit of using the wurth cobalt drills is that you end up cutting the weld flat to the panel behind instead of ending up with domed ruts.  

Its very important when using these drills that you do not drill any further into the spot weld than the thickness of the panel you are removing otherwise you will end up with holes on the panel you are trying to weld the new part too which is not only messy but time consuming to put right. If you are carefull you should be able to drill the scuttle from the outside of the car without going through to the top flange of the bulkhead and drill the top dash rail from inside the car without going through to the top of the bulkhead. When you have those panels off, you will then end up with a nice flange to weld your new panels to and get a nice neat finish.

 

As for splitting the spot welds, I use a special body chisel which is sharp, thin and flat and achieves a good finish but again, only if you are carefull. I have seen people use a wood chisel to split welds and und up with a bent and buckled seam which is full of tears and splits. I also have another body chisel that is sharp on the edge but broad on the other edge so you hit it  on the side of the chisel making splitting vertical seams easier.

 

The Cobalt drills are quite dear but you do get quality. http://www.ebay.co.u...103192179&ps=54

 

This is the side cutting chisel. I cannot comment on the quality of this particular ones as mine is a sykes pickavant one.

http://www.ebay.co.u...=item27d109536f

 

And this id the flat chisel I use.

http://www.ccw-tools...7-172-2660-620/

 

Good luck and if you need any more help, please ask.

 

Ben



#6 Zeemax Adventure

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Posted 20 August 2013 - 06:38 AM

Thanks for the links Ben, Im going to have a lot of welds to drill on my car but think my spotweld bits have seen better days.  That thin chisel looks brilliant compared to what i used to use.  I may have to buy some new kit 



#7 [email protected]

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Posted 21 August 2013 - 04:37 PM

Measure 5 times, weld once, get it right first time and save a lot of trouble....talking from my own experience (expensive experience) haha






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