16 replies to this topic

[Gremlin]

I am thinking about getting rid of the heavy, overly complicated, unnecessary, bulky servo that is continuously getting in the way and taking up too much room in the engine bay

Will it go through the MOT if bled well afterwards and just to confirm, is it as simple as - scrap the old master cylinder and servo, bolt on an older type master cylinder, and run a brake pipe down to the 'splitter' unit which controls how much fluid goes to the front/back.

Is the brake pedal the same and the connection between the pedal and the master cylinder

[mk1monster]

But why?

[DILLIGAF]

You insurances company won't like that one bit and would have major issue with it. Best to give 'em a ring and check you'll still be insured, after you remove it.......

[Gremlin]

I'm not insured....

I'm only 16!

But I drive it a lot on private roads, I feel that you don't NEED the servo and I am often a passenger in a non servo assisted van full of scrap steel and aluminium and it stops amazingly!

[mk1monster]

the difference is the whole braking system in said van will have been designed to not be servo assisted.

 

you would need to replace more than just the master cylinder and the servo possibly!

[Ethel]

Unless you've got plans for the space I can't see it being worth the hassle. You probably could retain the pedal, but the pushrod is permanently attached, so will need cutting free. There are also some plumbing differences to fit a yellow band master.

[adampat84]

If you have a servo leave it in.. my non servo brakes are not brilliant!

[Mowen123@hotmail.co.uk]

A lot of us on the 16V forum have removed ours for the same reason, for space. It does not cause problems with the insurance from what I've heard, all depends on your insurance company really. Second option, if it's for engine bay space, remotely fit it in the passenger footwell just under the lower dash rail. I have a mate who's done this and works fantastically and frees up the needed engine bay space. :) 

Edited by Mowen123@hotmail.co.uk, 21 August 2013 - 04:09 PM.

[Gremlin]

A lot of us on the 16V forum have removed ours for the same reason, for space. It does not cause problems with the insurance from what I've heard, all depends on your insurance company really. Second option, if it's for engine bay space, remotely fit it in the passenger footwell just under the lower dash rail. I have a mate who's done this and works fantastically and frees up the needed engine bay space. :) 

Cheers mate, this is the sort of answer I was hoping for!

[Mowen123@hotmail.co.uk]

 

A lot of us on the 16V forum have removed ours for the same reason, for space. It does not cause problems with the insurance from what I've heard, all depends on your insurance company really. Second option, if it's for engine bay space, remotely fit it in the passenger footwell just under the lower dash rail. I have a mate who's done this and works fantastically and frees up the needed engine bay space. :) 

Cheers mate, this is the sort of answer I was hoping for!

 

No problem mate. 

[HUBBA.HUBBA]

I did this conversion for exactly the same reason. You'd need a non servo pedal box ( i may have a spare). Just tell the insurance about mod. Very simple. I used a yellow lable brake cylinder and just had some pipe made up to go to balance regulator. Much better feel and feed back when braking. Fyi to get the most out of the brakes I upgraded to cross drilled discs and green stuff pads. Stops on a sixpence! Just do it!

[mk1monster]

Really???? I've been wondering about putting servo on ours as the 7.5" discs aren't too hot

[Cooperman]

I have tried a Mk.1 'S' at competition speeds on twisty wet lanes both with and without the servo. It may well be me, but the non-servo set-up seemed to lack feel and it was difficult to judge pushing hard enough to get best braking and pushing so hard the brakes ';grabbed' and threw the car sideways. I now always run with the servo.

[DILLIGAF]

Unless you've got plans for the space I can't see it being worth the hassle. You probably could retain the pedal, but the pushrod is permanently attached, so will need cutting free. There are also some plumbing differences to fit a yellow band master.

 

It's a different size, you can't replace this with a normal clevis pin and the original isn't available. So once you've cut the pin your stuck with a useless pedal......

[Dan]

  You don't need to replace the whole pedal box, just need a '76 - '88 pedal and twin pedal spring and a master cylinder baseplate and gaskets.