Super High New Suspension
#1
Posted 22 August 2013 - 12:09 AM
I've checked everything is in right and took it for a quick drive but it didn't seem to drop at all. It also has these cones in which says they are slightly higher than normal, but I was thinking by like 10mm or so and I could just compensate with the hi-lo's. Any thoughts?
http://www.minispare...px|Back to shop
Thanks
Chris
#2
Posted 22 August 2013 - 12:16 AM
Your forgetting about the the lever ratio on the the suspension, which at the front is 3:1. So you 10mm higher cone equates to 30mm higher ride height, with a little bit squash, taken up by the weight of the car........
#3
Posted 22 August 2013 - 02:26 AM
Hi can you explain the 3.1 leverage a bit more please. I would have thought if anything it would be less than the vertical height rise (unless you are talking about the properties of ballooning in the cone ( which i don't know)
In the front i would think the upper suspension arm is the top of the lever ( so no extra length leverage inboard of this point) and in the rears 10mm extra length in an inclined plane might only rise 1mm vertically (like slope in roads )
Happy to be corrected though
#4
Posted 22 August 2013 - 04:00 AM
What wheel set up do you have and did you read the advert fully?
From Minispares site.
If using these on 10" wheels with Hilos cut 3/4" off the end of the centre threaded bolt of the old type Hilo with a circlip as it will bottom out on the cone spring face and the car will sit high, for extremely lowered cars the hilo face will also need machining a few mm.
#5
Posted 22 August 2013 - 07:32 AM
Your forgetting about the the lever ratio on the the suspension, which at the front is 3:1. So you 10mm higher cone equates to 30mm higher ride height, with a little bit squash, taken up by the weight of the car........
I've taken the ratio into account, on the item description it doesn't say by how much it would raise the car. i was expecting it might raise it by about 10mm overall as a rough guess but as it sits at the moment it has raised it by about 60mm (40mm higher and 20mm compensated for on the hi-lo's) which seams a bit excessive.
What wheel set up do you have and did you read the advert fully?
From Minispares site.
If using these on 10" wheels with Hilos cut 3/4" off the end of the centre threaded bolt of the old type Hilo with a circlip as it will bottom out on the cone spring face and the car will sit high, for extremely lowered cars the hilo face will also need machining a few mm.
sorry forgot to say, i'm running 12's
#6
Posted 22 August 2013 - 08:14 AM
The car on my signature has Yellow spots which are very similar but a much harder ride. The car has adjustable trumpets ( not genuine hi lows), and we have it quite low without any modification. ( actually it is now lower than in that picture) So I am wondering how much more adjustment you have left and if there is another issue you need to sort out.
Not a lot of help i know, but maybe some pictures with the wheels off might show us something.
#7
Posted 22 August 2013 - 08:20 AM
This is how it was when we first set it up!

And when we wound the adjusters down a fair bit it ended up like this with still more adjustment left.

Hopefully you still have plenty of adjustment left and can get it a bit lower. If not, there is definitely something not quite right.
But as i said, pictures paint a thousand words, so take some with the car on its wheels and some with the wheels off close up.
#8
Posted 22 August 2013 - 09:07 AM
Hi can you explain the 3.1 leverage a bit more please. I would have thought if anything it would be less than the vertical height rise (unless you are talking about the properties of ballooning in the cone ( which i don't know)
In the front i would think the upper suspension arm is the top of the lever ( so no extra length leverage inboard of this point) and in the rears 10mm extra length in an inclined plane might only rise 1mm vertically (like slope in roads )
Happy to be corrected though
On the top arm, if you look you'll see the pivot pin isn't directly under the knuckle joint and the ball joint is at the end of the arm/lever........
So because it's fastened at one end and the top arm extends further out, in fact 3 times as far. There is a ratio of 3:1..........
Or in other words 3 inches at the end of the arm, equates to 1 inch at the knuckle joint..........
#9
Posted 22 August 2013 - 09:12 AM
took it for a quick drive but it didn't seem to drop at all.
Can take days or even weeks to fully settle in, depending on what else has been changed, or altered.
#10
Posted 22 August 2013 - 09:53 AM
As requested some pics


The back hasn't been done yet so its still at the standard height, I have about 10mm left on the hi-lo's which should get it down to the standard ride height but ideally i would like it a little lower. I'm going to go for a good drive and see if it will settle any more i think.
Edited by patto, 22 August 2013 - 10:20 AM.
#11
Posted 22 August 2013 - 09:55 AM
Hi can you explain the 3.1 leverage a bit more please. I would have thought if anything it would be less than the vertical height rise (unless you are talking about the properties of ballooning in the cone ( which i don't know)
In the front i would think the upper suspension arm is the top of the lever ( so no extra length leverage inboard of this point) and in the rears 10mm extra length in an inclined plane might only rise 1mm vertically (like slope in roads )
Happy to be corrected though
On the top arm, if you look you'll see the pivot pin isn't directly under the knuckle joint and the ball joint is at the end of the arm/lever........
So because it's fastened at one end and the top arm extends further out, in fact 3 times as far. There is a ratio of 3:1..........
Or in other words 3 inches at the end of the arm, equates to 1 inch at the knuckle joint..........
thank you
#12
Posted 22 August 2013 - 10:10 AM
took it for a quick drive but it didn't seem to drop at all.
Can take days or even weeks to fully settle in, depending on what else has been changed, or altered.
Ah will as you can see from the pics there isn't much that hasn't been changed ![]()
Edited by patto, 22 August 2013 - 10:20 AM.
#13
Posted 22 August 2013 - 10:21 AM
The new parts will def take a while to settle. I would drop the front down a little before running it. you need the rear of the car sitting slightly higher than the front for handling reasons ( I know ours looks wrong in the Sig piccy but look at the original piccy posted earlier, you will see the rear IS higher). then run it for a week or so and then reset the height to what you want. There is plenty of thread on the adjustables. if you measure the thread left and times that figure by three, that will be roughly how much lower you can go. If you go very low, Hopefully you have the correct shocks for lowered cars, and you may need to shave a bit off the bump stops. You could go lower but it gets more involved.
It doesn't look like anything is wrong, just adjustment needed to make up for the taller rubber cones. When you look at ours, no major modifications have been done apart from the adjustables and shorter shocks.
Edited by Yoda, 22 August 2013 - 10:23 AM.
#14
Posted 22 August 2013 - 10:40 AM
#15
Posted 22 August 2013 - 10:50 AM
Bet you notice a difference in twenty years tough LOL
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