
Crank End Float Crank Bearings Etc
#1
Posted 28 August 2013 - 07:42 AM
Main bearing size I take it I need measure the main journals and them but the right size am I right or wrong
And thrust washers to what one will I need or does this all come down to what the end float is
I'm trying to read the haynes but its useless is shows you very crap pic of end float checking with no measurments etc so can some one help please
And
#2
Posted 28 August 2013 - 07:50 AM
For mains and big ends you need to mic or plastigauge the crank journals. Thrust washers are sized by measuring the end float. Basically everything is sized by measuring the parts not the old bearings.
The haynes does list tolerances for all these so aim for the minimum figures
Edited by Frisco, 28 August 2013 - 07:50 AM.
#3
Posted 28 August 2013 - 07:54 AM
#4
Posted 28 August 2013 - 08:16 AM
If the crank is brand new the journals will be standard size. Undersize bearings are only needed after a regrind
#5
Posted 28 August 2013 - 09:07 AM
#6
Posted 28 August 2013 - 09:16 AM
If the journals are standard buy a complete set of main and big-end bearings and a standard thrust bearing set.
Do a trial build (sometimes known as a 'dummy build') to check that the crankshaft rotates freely and can be turned by a thumb and finger. Just use 20w50 oil for this build as you will be stripping down again. When doing the trial build you also fit the pistons with the rings removed to check how far from the block deck level the piston tops come so that the block can be skimmed to bring the pistons level with the block deck. The piston ring gaps can also be measured/checked whilst off the pistons (be careful not to snap a ring when removing/re-fitting).
When trial built, measure the crankshaft end float using a DTI with a magnetic base. If the float is more than 0.004", get one pair of thrust bearings at +0.003" oversize. If float is 0.007" get two pairs of +0.003" thrust bearings.
The key to engine building is to measure and measure using the right measuring equipment.
For accurate cam timing check you'll need a DTI and a crankshaft protractor.
Edited by Cooperman, 28 August 2013 - 09:17 AM.
#7
Posted 28 August 2013 - 09:22 AM
(Assuming this is an A+ Block) As Frisco says, a new crank will require standard shells (00'), there are varying quality of shells available good shells are available from ACL or better quality but more expensive are the Mahle versions - http://www.minispare...px|Back to shop
Thrust washers are pretty cheap you'll need to measure the end float to be precise -
#8
Posted 28 August 2013 - 09:22 AM
#9
Posted 28 August 2013 - 09:40 AM
MED sell ACL and Mahle (Vanderval) bearings which are excellent quality but they charge a lot of money for them, you can obtain those elsewhere for much less. I would ring up minisport and confirm the spec of the crank is 'Standard' shell size then ask them if they sell ACL shells
If your in Bromley pop along to Gosnay's they have shells for everything, - http://www.gosnays.c...log/search.html they are really friendly and very helpful
#10
Posted 28 August 2013 - 09:49 AM
At 1380 pay attention to the firing ring on the headgasket and check its not going to make contact with your pistons
#11
Posted 28 August 2013 - 08:22 PM
#12
Posted 30 August 2013 - 07:16 PM
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