
Cone Compression
#1
Posted 29 August 2013 - 12:33 AM
#2
Posted 29 August 2013 - 01:10 AM
Until you can remove the trumpet. Remove the rebound stop to give you a bit more drop on the arm as well.
#3
Posted 29 August 2013 - 01:16 AM
#4
Posted 29 August 2013 - 09:29 AM
quick word of warnign, make sure that when you screw the thread into the cone before compressing, make sure it threds correctly and is into the cone as far as it will go. i started compressing and bang!
#5
Posted 29 August 2013 - 09:31 AM
quick word of warnign, make sure that when you screw the thread into the cone before compressing, make sure it threds correctly and is into the cone as far as it will go. i started compressing and bang!
Very good advice indeed. The inner piece should go in about 7 turns. If the threads are dirty it can be a problem so a good squirt of wd40 down the hole left by the big bolt is worth doing.
#6
Posted 29 August 2013 - 09:36 AM
i put a little bit of copper grease on the treaded section to help things as well. also a squirt of wd40 on the actual cone compressor tool (when you actually start compressing it) can help a lot!
#7
Posted 29 August 2013 - 09:50 AM
Since we're adding tips...
Do the compressing with it sat on the ground so the weight of the car is helping you - wheel on or jack under the bottom arm (backed up with support under the subby, just in case).
You're also aware there were metric & unf versions of cones? Unless it's old (solid mount subby) and original, it's most likely metric, but consider it if the tool doesn't want to screw in.
#8
Posted 29 August 2013 - 10:45 AM
Also if ur using a cheap compression tool if minisport, watch you don't strip the thread!!!
Edited by Fossy313, 29 August 2013 - 10:46 AM.
#9
Posted 29 August 2013 - 10:47 AM
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