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Swapping To Non Servo Brakes


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#1 james.c94

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Posted 09 September 2013 - 10:53 AM

Hi guys,

I'm looking to swap my servo brake setup for a non servo assisted setup. What exactly do I need? I had read somewhere before that the pedal box is different on earlier cars and that the hole in the crossmember is slightly different is this correct? Other than that do I just need the twin line master cylinder some brake lines made up?

Cheers
James

#2 myredmini

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Posted 09 September 2013 - 11:45 AM

Just out of general interest whats your reason to go for non servo brakes?

#3 HarrysMini

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Posted 09 September 2013 - 11:48 AM

Just out of general interest whats your reason to go for non servo brakes?

Probably to save space in the bay. 



#4 james.c94

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Posted 09 September 2013 - 12:34 PM

Just out of general interest whats your reason to go for non servo brakes?

Probably to save space in the bay.

Is indeed, I like the feel of the brakes both with and without a servo so junking it to saves space makes sense to me

#5 Old Bob

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Posted 09 September 2013 - 12:49 PM

I think you will find the box is the same, the difference is in the pedal.

 

Bob



#6 AVV IT

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Posted 09 September 2013 - 01:02 PM

Might be worth checking with your insurance company first, before removing the servo. Regardless of how unnecessary we may consider the servo to be on a classic mini, going on previous posts here, insurers tend to view that sort of thing as a significant brake downgrade and may well hike your premium as a result.



#7 HarrysMini

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Posted 09 September 2013 - 01:07 PM

Exactly. I was going to not bother putting a servo back in my car after the rebuild but insurance and other complications made it not worth it. 

 

As above, it's the actual pedal that's different on servo models. 



#8 james.c94

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Posted 17 September 2013 - 05:55 PM

so all I need is the master cylinder and brake pedal?

 

Also has anyone ever used a Y piece on a single line master cylinder to connect it to the twin line brake valve that is mounted on the bulkhead? I know that the twin line systems use two different size bores on the master cylinder but I wondered if it was possible at all with a single line master cylinder

 

Cheers Guys :)



#9 Spitz

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Posted 17 September 2013 - 06:15 PM

How/why is the brake pedal different on servo cars?  Is it just the later servo cars with a different pedal?  The 60's and 71 servo cars used the same pedal as non servo cars.  Brake pedals changed in 76 (75?)....did they change again for brake servo in 84, I think it was?

 

Just curious on this is all........


Edited by Spitz, 17 September 2013 - 07:03 PM.


#10 Barman

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Posted 17 September 2013 - 06:19 PM

I've had a nightmare brake fluid leak for a while on the union with the brake light switch...

 

I took it all apart last week to fix it once and for all and that involved removing the (remote servo) to get to the parts right down below the clutch....

 

Anyway, rather than put it all back (again) and have to take it apart (again) I by-passed the servo, bled the brakes and took her (1973 1275 GT) out for a drive...

 

I have to say that I preferred the feel of the servo assisted brakes... perhaps that is because my daily drive (Pajero) is servo assisted I don't know but now that the leak is fixed I have re-connected the servo to the system...

 

Just my feedback...



#11 james.c94

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Posted 17 September 2013 - 06:19 PM

The pivot point must be different on a servo car for both different leverage and the way it has to push the servo which is mounted horizontally instead of vertically like every other mini master cylinder

 

I might be wrong but that makes sense to me :)



#12 Spitz

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Posted 17 September 2013 - 07:07 PM

Yes....for the cars with bulkead mounted servos....but not the early ones, inner wing mounted.  The brake master would have just been taller I think.



#13 grumpy dad

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Posted 17 September 2013 - 09:34 PM

its all down to the clevis pin size in the pedal

on the non servo pedal its smaller

same size as the clutch

on the servo pedal the hole is about 4 mil bigger

this is because the clevis pin has a plastic coating

like on the top pin

that is the only diffrince

 

we fitted a servo to a non servo pedal

all I did was make up 2 brass spacers  

to take up the slack on the clevis pin hole

that is the link between the pedal and the link arm

all there is to it






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