7 replies to this topic

[RemKingston]

Anyone else had issues with the original Mini hubs failing?

 

Again, I didn't build the mini and have limited information from the previous owner so playing a detective game going along as and when different noises appear.

 

 

On the way back from a track day I noticed a grinding noise coming from the drivers side but only when the brakes were applied.

 

Got the wheel off to find the wear on the outer edge of the disc and inside of the brake calliper and massive play on the hub.

 

Disc Wear:

 

 

 

 

 

 

I'm sorting a new hub out but anyone experience similar?

 

[jaydee]

Its usually the bearings that fail, but i had a few hubs that failed, they didnt held the outer races in place, causing bearings to fail.

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Thats not an original Mini hub........

[wilz1234]

Thats not an original Mini hub........

 

...or upright, or suspension arms, or subframe, or caliper

 

 

Edit: Just realised it's a zcars mini.

Edited by wilz1234, 11 September 2013 - 12:43 PM.

[cptkirk]

@ Remkingston:

 

This is a common problem and it plagued me for some time but I managed to overcome it. With it being so bad right now I advise you to fit a new bearing set in there for starters just in case it f3cked the bearing (get tapered Timken bearings). Get a new tapered washer & split pin to put in the mix as well.

 

Here's the key thing that you need to do when it's all back together - use a flat washer to tighten the whole lot up (I used some tube that sat on the inner race of the bearing) - DO NOT use the tapered washer to do this. The reason being that the tapered washer grabs hold of the drive shaft before allowing the bearings to be fully pulled together, it'll feel ok for a while then it will start to come loose again. One of the tell tale signs is the brake pedal will go long on the first press as the pads pull the brake disc vertical. Off the top of my head (please check the Haynes manual) I think you torque the castellated nut to 150ft/lbs, I do this with the flat washer (plus a bit more), remove the nut and flat washer, replace with the tapered washer and tighten it again to the recommended. I have been good for a few thousand miles now.

 

Good luck.

[RemKingston]

@ Remkingston:

 

This is a common problem and it plagued me for some time but I managed to overcome it. With it being so bad right now I advise you to fit a new bearing set in there for starters just in case it f3cked the bearing (get tapered Timken bearings). Get a new tapered washer & split pin to put in the mix as well.

 

Here's the key thing that you need to do when it's all back together - use a flat washer to tighten the whole lot up (I used some tube that sat on the inner race of the bearing) - DO NOT use the tapered washer to do this. The reason being that the tapered washer grabs hold of the drive shaft before allowing the bearings to be fully pulled together, it'll feel ok for a while then it will start to come loose again. One of the tell tale signs is the brake pedal will go long on the first press as the pads pull the brake disc vertical. Off the top of my head (please check the Haynes manual) I think you torque the castellated nut to 150ft/lbs, I do this with the flat washer (plus a bit more), remove the nut and flat washer, replace with the tapered washer and tighten it again to the recommended. I have been good for a few thousand miles now.

 

Good luck.

 

 

Perfect!  Thank you Andy :)
I will do :)

So should/do they last in a z car set up?

 

Also, what would cause this kind of failure?

Edited by RemKingston, 11 September 2013 - 04:30 PM.

[PushingTin]

I've had this same issue twice, seemed remedied by replacing the bearings and realising just how much torque is actually required, I don't think I had it torqued enough and the split pin would shear and the large nut would wind itself undone.. Made for so e exciting returns to the pits with a long brake pedal and loose wheel, lol..

PT

[cptkirk]

Perfect!  Thank you Andy :)

I will do :)

So should/do they last in a z car set up?

 

Also, what would cause this kind of failure?

 

 

I would say that they should last just fine, I was 130mph in mine at Goodwood and I checked it the day after (still nervous of it) and it didnt have any play in it.

 

Not doing what I said above will cause this type of failure, as the tapered washer has a split in it it allows the washer to tighten onto the driveshaft as it is forced into its tapered housing in the upright, this small difference will only come to light once you start giving it some down the road. if the bearings start to fail then the amount of play will increase.

 

As PT said dont be shy when tightening with the flat washer, be careful not to knock anything when removing the flat washer and also careful back on with the tapered washer, should be fine.

Edited by cptkirk, 12 September 2013 - 11:48 AM.