43 replies to this topic

[seancv1]

Oil suction would be a better description but stickage sounds better

[seancv1]

Oil suction would be a better description but stickage sounds better give all the bolts you will be undoing a thorough coating in wd40 or this stuff ; it really is good believe the hype about it ferrosol from bilt hamber products and have a good look up on techniques about not rounding stuff off I know what you mean absolute pain when it happens.

[KernowCooper]

Do you have access to a cooling system pressure tester? pump up to 15psi check fro pressure and fluid loss

[jime17]

Do you have access to a cooling system pressure tester? pump up to 15psi check fro pressure and fluid loss

Afraid not. Although I have a bit of an update.

I did say I could see no signs of leaks, but I ran it up yesterday evening and had a really good look whilst flexing pipes etc.

There seems to be a very slight leak on the top hose/rad union which became apparent when I moved the hose so curing that should be no problem... However, running my hand under the gearbox casing at cyl 1
end, what I took to be a small oil leak Was in fact coolant. Very slow drip a few drips over 10min or so but I imagine would leak more when the pressure builds up under load.

It was trickling down the side of the gearbox case and collecting underneath before dripping.

As the space there us so tight its hard to trace. The pump seems ok. No leak from the little hole. I can't hear any sound from a pinhole leak in a hose when I switch engine off.

What could leak on that side of the engine? I imagine water pump gasket, but is there anything else that could be the culprit?

Sorry for war and peace.

Edited by jime17, 24 September 2013 - 07:41 AM.

[Yoda]

Is there a short hose from the top of the pump, straight up to the head about 1 1/2 to 2 inch long? this is a pretty common area for a small leak, but to repair it properly you need to either remove the pump, or the cylinder head.

[jime17]

Yes I have a bypass. I just looked. It seems ok but hard to see properly. Ill look when its at operating temp and see if there is anything obvious. Haynes mentions that replacement of this can be a tedious process.

[jime17]

Update....

Was tinkering today. Still had the slow coolant drip down the side of the gearbox case.

Amongst other things I decided to tighten the fan belt.

When I started the engine after. Water was leaking rapidly down the same path.

I can now see a rusty line of water along the protrusion of the pump from the fan end to the engine block if I look up from underneath.

I'm assuming the leak always came from there and tightening the fan belt exacerbated it?

I've slackened the alternater a touch and the drip has slowed.

Does this all sound feasable to you folks?

[Yoda]

yep, sounds like your pump has gone.

[jime17]

Cheers . Now I can replace the bypass at the same time for peace of mind.

[Yoda]

With the pump off, it certainly makes the bypass hose easier. Good luck. Its also a good time to check that the radiator fins are clear of any rubbish.

[jime17]

Does the rad have to come out Yoda or can I tilt it back?

[Yoda]

You can wriggle things about a bit, but i find it quicker to just take it out to be honest.

[jime17]

What's your opinion on blanking the bypass in the head, using the pump without bypass and drilling thermostat?

[jime17]

Just an update in case anyone else has a similar prob....

Changed the water pump and bypass. Solved the problem. Head gasket seems ok so didn't bother with that. Compressoons all equal or there abouts.

Rad out was fairly simple. One long bolt underneath. The front two cowling screws were corroded and sheared off so will have to drill them out at some point but otherwise ok.