14 replies to this topic

[Stu1961]

Hi all,

Just on the verge of finishing off my gearbox build but not sure what the torque settings are for the diff casing to gearbox bolts, 4 x 3/8" UNC and 3 x 5/16" UNC.

Plenty of references for torque settings for studs and nuts in the manuals but mine are bolts with lock tab washers.

Any advice gratefully received

Cheers

Stuart

Edited by Stu1961, 22 September 2013 - 11:10 PM.

[Guess-Works.com]

18 ftlb for the 5/16" ( applies to all 5/16" screws, diff side covers,speedo cover and adaptor plate )

 

25 ftlb for the 3/8"

[Stu1961]

Cheers John

Thanks

Stuart

[Myminiproject]

Thanks for the torques John.

 

Look what happened to the left side diff housing locktab when I torqued past 20 ft lbs!! I guess they don't make them like they used to    Sent back to Mini Spares for a refund. RHS was fine when torqued up.

 

MMP

 

[Spider]

I stopped using locktabs years ago. They are too soft, as you've found here, though that's a bit extreme. Those currently available (or at least last time I checked) are too soft, any 'goodness' done by torquing them up correctly is lost usually over the hours following that torquing as the locktab oozes out from under the fastener.

[Steve220]

Bin the tabs unless you're going concourse! Threadlock FTW!

[Java_Green]

I stopped using locktabs years ago. They are too soft, as you've found here, though that's a bit extreme. Those currently available (or at least last time I checked) are too soft, any 'goodness' done by torquing them up correctly is lost usually over the hours following that torquing as the locktab oozes out from under the fastener.

What do you use instead or do you just run without?

[Spider]

 

I stopped using locktabs years ago. They are too soft, as you've found here, though that's a bit extreme. Those currently available (or at least last time I checked) are too soft, any 'goodness' done by torquing them up correctly is lost usually over the hours following that torquing as the locktab oozes out from under the fastener.

 

What do you use instead or do you just run without?

 

 

No doubt it'll be frowned on by some, but a decent flat washer and a decent spring washer, tighten to torque.

I know some may frown on my using a flat washer but without it, the spring washers do chew in to the castings, especially the alloy ones.

In the 20 odd years I've been doing them this way, I've never had anything come loose.
 

[Java_Green]

I stopped using locktabs years ago. They are too soft, as you've found here, though that's a bit extreme. Those currently available (or at least last time I checked) are too soft, any 'goodness' done by torquing them up correctly is lost usually over the hours following that torquing as the locktab oozes out from under the fastener.

What do you use instead or do you just run without?

No doubt it'll be frowned on by some, but a decent flat washer and a decent spring washer, tighten to torque.

I know some may frown on my using a flat washer but without it, the spring washers do chew in to the castings, especially the alloy ones.

In the 20 odd years I've been doing them this way, I've never had anything come loose.

That was what I thought. I agree that a spring washer needs a steel washer underneath to prevent "Al thewing" and to make use of torque spec (Al thewing will make friction go sky rocket and nothing left for pretension). Then their can always be a discussion about the usage of spring washers, but that is already discussed.

[Myminiproject]

Thanks Spider and Steve220. I've just torqued the bolts without washers, I guess I should add the washer and spring washer and threadlock and padlock 

[Cooperman]

I jut use flat washers and Loctite.

[Gaz66]

What thread lock are people using on these bolts, the blue stuff?

[Cooperman]

What thread lock are people using on these bolts, the blue stuff?

Yes, that's the stuff.

[GraemeC]

I use threadlock and Schnorr washers

[Guess-Works.com]

What thread lock are people using on these bolts, the blue stuff?

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