14 replies to this topic

[Deejayry]

When I installed a set of yellow spot cone springs on my mini I found that I had to shorten the front adjustable trumpets by about 25 mm before I could get the car to sit at a suitability low ride height, as a result now when I jack the car up the trumpets have a tendency to drop out of their sockets in the sockets in the cone springs when the suspension is at full droop. So I am looking to fit a thicker droopstop in place of the standard item screwed to the front subframe. Does anyone know if these are available? Or am I going to have to get creative by machining some kind of spacer to fit between the standard droopstop and the subframe?

[rally515]

Whats a droopstop ? :/

[Deejayry]

A droop stop is the correct term for the part often called the lower bump stop or sometimes a rebound stop.

 

In a standard height road car they may actually be working as a rebound stop preventing metal to metal contact between the top arm and the subframe, on a car that is lowered to race height the top arm will be nowhere near the subframe when the car is on its wheels , they simply serve to limit the amount of droop in the front suspension when under no load. 

Edited by Deejayry, 25 September 2013 - 10:51 PM.

[JustSteve]

This is why you fit shorter dampers. Most people think they're to stop the car bottoming out on lowered cars but this is not the case.

[jaydee]

Thats not a proper droop stop, its a rebound buffer. Theres a thin alternative but not a thicker one.. 

Get lowered shoks ot raise your hi-los to overcome this problem, cones will settle with time.

[podifold]

http://www.7ent.com/...all-for035.html

[Gadgets]

That's the answer "Simples" bit of importing from the USA for you then!

[Deejayry]

This is why you fit shorter dampers. Most people think they're to stop the car bottoming out on lowered cars but this is not the case.

 

Thats not a proper droop stop, its a rebound buffer. Theres a thin alternative but not a thicker one.. 

Get lowered shoks ot raise your hi-los to overcome this problem, cones will settle with time.

 

I already have the correct dampers, if i chose a damper that was any shorter and the it will be too close to the limit of its travel to work effectively, the problem arises with the yellow spot cone springs which sit quite a bit taller than the stock item, with an un modified Hi-lo wound all the way in the car would sit higher than its standard ride height, therefore the Hi-lo requires shortening, Also due to the much stiffer spring rate the yellow spot cone spring does not compress much at all under the weight of the car.

 

http://www.7ent.com/...all-for035.html

 

Thanks, thats the kind of thing i was looking for, however at that price plus the cost of shipping an import duty i'll give them a miss. Today i went to the workshop and modified the standard stops by tacking on a piece of 1/4" plate to the underside and extending the mounting ear... Works like a charm!

[hoody99]

When you fitted the new rubber donuts did you use a compression tool ? If not then that's why they would not fit hence why the trimming of the high low/trumpet. And it would rise the car on first install as the rubbers are new and need time to settle. This is just my understanding may be wrong

[M J W J]

I have seen a car at the shows that has a bmw bike engine head conversion. So it clears the bonnet it was fitted into an automatic mini's frame which allows the engine and gearbox to sit about 3/4" lower.

 

To prevent the drive shafts from hitting the frame on full droop the guy fitted some aluminium packers under the standard lower bump stops. An idea worth considering.

[Bash Master]

http://www.ebay.co.u...=item485561de50

For a metro but they are the same fitment as a mini.

[jaydee]

Wow these will be harsh if not dangerous on a mini..

I remember back in the days putting any kind of spare rubber in place there because the soft rubbers didnt last a thousand miles, but then i found poly buffers which are harder.

[icklemini]

A solution would be to raise the top shock absorber hanger...

Usual suppliers sell these and used with a 'lowered' shock will stop the suspension from falling apart on very low cars...

[Deejayry]

When you fitted the new rubber donuts did you use a compression tool ? If not then that's why they would not fit hence why the trimming of the high low/trumpet. And it would rise the car on first install as the rubbers are new and need time to settle. This is just my understanding may be wrong

 

Nope, no spring compressor needed on a car at this kind of ride height, its a tool only needed on standard setup to give you room to fit the trumpet & knuckle joint.

 

Wow these will be harsh if not dangerous on a mini..

I remember back in the days putting any kind of spare rubber in place there because the soft rubbers didnt last a thousand miles, but then i found poly buffers which are harder.

 

i would have though the same until chatting with the KAD / MundoSport guys at castle combe yesterday they actually use what looks to be a standard item with the rubber removed and a nut welded in its place, then a stack of washers & a dome head screw to set the thickness of the stop. they say that the spring is almost fully unloaded at the point of contact so it makes little difference.

 

A solution would be to raise the top shock absorber hanger...

Usual suppliers sell these and used with a 'lowered' shock will stop the suspension from falling apart on very low cars...

 

already have some fitted, but am thinking of further modifications to raise the top mount further and bring it further inwards to get a slightly better damper angle

[icklemini]

I know from personal experience on the mini7's i work with: due to the lowered height, the top damper hanger has to be relocated to allow enough damper travel when on full bump... now on rebound the length of the shocks are just enough to hold it all together when on full droop.......