9 replies to this topic

[F1L8EY]

Bad news little guidance needed maybe ??

 

i lent my little brother my checkmate to get to and from his army base and hes melted the engine!! im sure its not terminal but i think i can chase the problem for the overheating or just swap it for the 1098 i have in the garage. ??

 

now while the 1098 is still out i thought i can replace any of the hard to reach items that might not be 100% new oil ect so whenits in its had a mini service and should run better. with minimal risk of having to pull it again for some time. :?

 

 

heres my Shopping list so far...

 

Clutch kit

full engine gasket set

oil filter

sump copper washer

oil

oil valve and spring

spark plugs

 

i will get on here what the engine number is so we can work out if i need anything else....

 

Filbey

[OhDear]

water pump and FAN belt

[jaydee]

Dont forget HT leads, points and condenser (or a leccy conversion kit) dizzy cap and rotor, coil if its been loosing oil or has developed wrong resistance.

New gear selector seal is mandatory with engine out, saves a lot of hassle later.

 

 

 

 

oil valve and spring

 

 

?

Edited by jaydee, 26 September 2013 - 08:45 PM.

[F1L8EY]

oil pressure valve and spring ?? "Replacement steel oil pressure and valve release spring kit.

Fits inside the block on all Minis."

 

Jaydee i also thought head gasket but theres something amiss that would have blown it in the first place. just to renew/repair the cooling system its easier to rip out the engine. 

 

Keep it coming guys, i will check the 1098 before i order anything wash it, turn it over maybe even try and start it in situ to check it runs... :S

[Earwax]

check engine mounts and steadies :)- anti seize on speedo cable aluminium collar/nut - bugger to change at any time but worse if cant undo in situ

[Cooperman]

The big question is how much he overheated it. if it just got a bit hot it should be no big problem, but if it seriously overheated and seized or partially seized the pistons in the bores, then it's a completely different thing. With a partial seizure the minimum work needed will be a full engine strip, honing of the bores & new pistons rings or, if the pistons are damaged a re-bore with new pistons. Plus, of course, new main & big-end bearings, etc.

[Earwax]

hi cooperman,   iwas going on the assumption he was going to swap engines : take out the cooked one and just put the other one  in,,, so   leave it all in one piece  sort of advice

[Cooperman]

Ah, I should obviously go to bed earlier.

 

Yes, it's best to renew the parts suggested above, but if the engine is out it is wise to inspect & renew the main bearings and big-end bearings, check the crankshaft end-float and fit new thrust bearings to keep the float within 0.002" to 0.005".

[F1L8EY]

Right guys, started stripping the 1098 engine down, i degreased and powerwashed the whole engine down.

 

i think the Engine number is : WFM 1026/4 NWX

and i think the head number is : CAM4510 or 4810 or 4610 i cant quite make the second number out :/

 

bores are clean, good compression turning her over by hand, once i washed her i removed the head. ALL the studs came out lol!! 

 

i bought a tin of red engine paint (should help it go faster FACT!!)

 

After...

 

im not sure how to check the clutch... and im not sure if this engine is compatable yet or unleaded orverto/prevert0... ive got research to do!!

 

Filbey

[phil hill]

Right guys, started stripping the 1098 engine down, i degreased and powerwashed the whole engine down.

 

i think the Engine number is : WFM 1026/4 NWX

and i think the head number is : CAM4510 or 4810 or 4610 i cant quite make the second number out :/

 

bores are clean, good compression turning her over by hand, once i washed her i removed the head. ALL the studs came out lol!! 

 

i bought a tin of red engine paint (should help it go faster FACT!!)

 

 

fter...

 

 

 

im not sure how to check the clutch... and im not sure if this engine is compatable yet or unleaded orverto/prevert0... ive got research to do!!

 

Filbey

The "WFM" number is the block casting number not the engine number, that will be on the small metal plate on the flat surface under the temperature sender next to the water pump.

 

It's definitely a small bore unit, looks to be A+ and definitely a pre-verto clutch, so I'd say circa 1979-1983.

 

Phil.