7 replies to this topic

[felixy69]

Need help !
I always see race cars that have their shifter relocated to inside the cabin
What is the use of this modification ??
How to do it ?
What parts I need ?

[DannyTip]

KAD do a kit http://www.kentautod...ear-linkage-kit or you can make something yourself.

[Earwax]

the link gives a good description of why they do it

[tiger99]

One thing I like, which would also work on a road car if the linkage remained under the floor, is that they are using proper UJs instead of a coupling sleeve and two loosely fitting roll pins. It has to be more precise in action.

[felixy69]

found the answer !!

 

A must for any race car or highly modifed Mini where not only ground clearance but extra room for exhausts are needed.

 

[DannyTip]

I think it is often done to improve the feel and position of the gear lever rather than clearance issues.

[monster_mini]

Also, if you fit this kit, I'd recommend if you haven't already upgrade your engine steadies so it doesn't rock about atall, otherwise it will jump out of gear if the engine has even a small rock(even worse with a good dogbox fitted). This is because he standard unit is rubber mounted to when the engine rocks, the housing moves ever so slightly with it, however bring it in the car and when the engine rocks all it does is move the linkage!! Very annoying when racing!!:)

[Deejayry]

The KAD kit has all the parts needed to perform the mod, but in my oppinion it was over priced and since i have access to a lathe i chose to buy the parts separately and make my own kit.

 

I got a couple lovejoy UJ's through tizaro.com which come with a pilot bore, one UJ i drilled one end to be a snug fit on the gearbox link stub and secured with a roll pin, the other end was drilled & tapped with a M10 left hand thread, the other Uj was drilled and tapped M10 right hand thread on both ends.

 

i bought a 6 metre length of 12mm steel stock rod for £5 from my local steel stockist. (way more than i needed but for a fiver who cares)  cut it to lenght and cut a m10 LH thread on one end and a M10 RH thread on the other.

 

I used the original rear hanger mount flipped over and drilled new holes to mount it to the exhaust tunnel. and i fabricated the front mounting from thin steel. I still need to get an M10 LH nut to lock the gearbox end UJ (at the moment i have a home made nut which was made from an odd scarp of 16 mm alloy hex bar)

 

one thing to note is that your engine must be mounted very solidly. any engine movement will pull it out of gear. If noise is even of the slightest concern this is not the mod for you as engine noise will be transmitted in to the car body. I have 4 engine steady bars all fitted with poly bushes (original top bar, original bottom front bar & two additional bottom rear bars from diff housing to subframe) plus an ultimate engine steady. the engine is mounted on standard engine mounts. i've been on a short test run in road like conditions and not had any problems, howwever i dont expect it to perform under track conditions so i plan to replace all the steady bars and UES with adjustable rose jointed bars and replace the engine mounts with solid steel mounts.