16 replies to this topic

[Big_Adam]

Hey folks,

 

Slowly doing my El Gordo back up. Got some disc CV joints for my 7.5 discs.

 

I got the weird seemingly half size castle nut, and I know I need a sintered steel round cone washer ... thing (this ; http://www.minispare...c/FAM9270A.aspx)

 

Do I need a big washer to go on top of that or just wack the nut on top?

 

Ta for any input.

 

[[email protected]]

Just the nut on top

[Big_Adam]

Bonza, now to hand all this annoying stuff called money over for not nearly enough car parts.

 

Ta Simon.

[psychobob]

I just had to buy parts for my runaround Honda and loads of bits to sort my sons 998. loads of cash for the Honda bits and they fit in a padded envelope! half the price for the mini bits and the pile of parcels looks like Christmas! I must get my hornet mot'd soon.

[Spitz]

That thrust washer needs to be fitted AFTER the CV  has been torqued with a large flat washer underneath the nut.  The flat washer is then removed and the thrust washer put in place....nut directly on the thrust washer......torque nut.

[madaboutcherry]

where would get such a washer? lot's of people say it's the way to do it.

[dklawson]

I am not sure where you buy such a washer, I had to make my own from 1/4" thick steel plate.  Perhaps construction supply places would have them.  Regular washers are either too thin, to large in outside diameter, or both.

 

If you have a friend with a small machine shop, buy large flat washers whose OD is not too big, have your friend tack weld a couple of these washers together, then bore the inside diameter of the assembly to just clear the threads on the CV.

[Big_Adam]

Wait, so do I need a washer on this taper split thing or not then?

 

As I can always add one in.

[dklawson]

You need the flat washer for assembly purposes but it is NOT left on the car.

 

Fit the hub, omit the conical washer, fit the flat washer and torque to 150 ft-lb.

Undo the nut, remove the flat washer, fit the conical washer, re-torque to 150 ft-lb.  

Fit the split pin.  If the castle nut will not allow the split pin to go in, turn the nut TIGHTER until you can just insert the pin.

DO NOT loosen the nut to fit the split pin.

 

The flat washer is only used to seat everything prior to fitting the conical washer.  For final assembly the nut rests directly against the conical washer.

[Big_Adam]

You need the flat washer for assembly purposes but it is NOT left on the car.

 

Fit the hub, omit the conical washer, fit the flat washer and torque to 150 ft-lb.

Undo the nut, remove the flat washer, fit the conical washer, re-torque to 150 ft-lb.  

Fit the split pin.  If the castle nut will not allow the split pin to go in, turn the nut TIGHTER until you can just insert the pin.

DO NOT loosen the nut to fit the split pin.

 

The flat washer is only used to seat everything prior to fitting the conical washer.  For final assembly the nut rests directly against the conical washer.

 

Welp, bit late for that. Then again, I can't torque it to full setting as 1) my wrench don't go that high, and 2) I can't get the wheel to stay still.

[dklawson]

It has been a while since I installed a front hub but what I remember doing was lowering the car on a jack until a wheel stud could be brought to rest on the top of a concrete block.  That prevented the hub from rotating while the nut was tightened.

 

You can improvise on the torque wrench if you are careful.  However, I advise you borrow a wrench and tighten to the correct value.

[tiger99]

Yes, the torque is very important, as if it is too low, there will be severe fretting between the splines, followed by bearings spinning, ruined hubs or worse. It is unsafe, and the car should not be used until it is torqued properly. The easy way to do it is to drill a nice long piece of angle iron and bolt it to 2 wheel studs, with the end on the ground. The longer it is, the less it will try to lift the car as you torque up the nut.

[Big_Adam]

Yes, the torque is very important, as if it is too low, there will be severe fretting between the splines, followed by bearings spinning, ruined hubs or worse. It is unsafe, and the car should not be used until it is torqued properly. The easy way to do it is to drill a nice long piece of angle iron and bolt it to 2 wheel studs, with the end on the ground. The longer it is, the less it will try to lift the car as you torque up the nut.

 

The car doesn't have an engine, brakes, interior, electrical system.

 

It ain't going to be moved for a while. So I'll sort it when I get some weight into it.

[matt615]

This is the washer you are supposed to use:

http://www.minispare...|Back to search

You initially use this washer instead of the tapered washer. The idea is it will pull the cv joint into the wheel bearing properly ( rather than using the tapered washer, where the taper can jam it and make it feel like its fitted when it isn't). Once tightened up with the flat washer, you remove it and fit the tapered washer instead.

[dklawson]

Thanks for posting the tool link.