
Wrong Coil.
#1
Posted 09 October 2013 - 05:14 AM
#2
Posted 09 October 2013 - 06:55 AM
you need a electronic ignition coil. have you been driving like this for ages or only had problem since changing the coil?
#3
Posted 09 October 2013 - 06:56 AM
If not then the coil is wrong. I don't know if that's causing your problem though.
#4
Posted 09 October 2013 - 07:21 AM
#5
Posted 09 October 2013 - 08:30 AM
Is the electronic ignition an after market kit or a factory lucas unit.
The after market don't need any special coils. just need wiring correctly
#6
Posted 09 October 2013 - 11:09 AM
#7
Posted 09 October 2013 - 11:28 AM
depends if ballast or non ballast.
If the electronic ignition is 2 wires red and black then
If the coil is ballasted then you leave the coil wiring standard
white/pink and white/yellow to coil positive
new wire from white wires on fuse box to electronic unit red wire do not connect to coil
black wire from electronic to coil negative.
If coil is non ballast
then red wire goes to coil positive, black wire coil negative.
#8
Posted 09 October 2013 - 12:15 PM
Ive got an Accuspark kit and didnt have to change the coil - mine is non-ballast though.
#9
Posted 09 October 2013 - 02:48 PM
Then you should have a 12v feed to the coil + and the red wire from the electronic on the the same coil + terminal and the other black wire on the coil -
#10
Posted 12 October 2013 - 01:34 PM
Waiting for an updated from Nollyd (the OP).
As above, for a factory electronic ignition you need the "right" coil.
For an aftermarket ignition kit any coil can work but with ballast coils the ignition needs to be wired as Lrostoke says.
#11
Posted 12 October 2013 - 01:50 PM
Best if Ballasted to change the wiring and run a 12v coil and do away with the resistor wiring as lots have overheated and taken the loom out.
#12
Posted 12 October 2013 - 02:34 PM
I understand the motive to get rid of the problematic pink wire by replacing a ballast coil with a standard one. However, that is not necessary to replace the coil to achieve the desired result.
Other car makers used an external ballast resistor instead of the pink resistance wire. You CAN tape off the pink wire, fit a new white wire directly to the fuse box, and connect an external ballast resistor in series with the new white wire to power the existing ballast coil. That retains the function of the ballast ignition system, removes the potential problems of the pink wire, and can cost less than buying a brand new coil.
External Ballast Resistor Link Below:
http://www.holden.co...m&pCode=030.009
That's a 1.6 Ohm resistor and it would work fine in place of the pink wire.
#13
Posted 12 October 2013 - 02:41 PM
Maybe the case Doug but I personally dont see the need to introduce another component. when a well maintained 12v system does the job and by using a Lucas sports coil or similar with the electronic trigger you can open up the plug gaps a bit for increased spark.
As you rightly say though if your on a budget then the option is to wire it up as you suggest and retain the ballast coil
#14
Posted 12 October 2013 - 05:31 PM
You really can't open the plug gap a lot when you are still using points. Yes... a little, but not as much as when you are using an electronic ignition. The electronic ignition allows better charge/discharge times for the coil which allows you to open the plug gap up a bit.
The ballast system was developed as a method to allow traditional points ignition systems to develop hotter spark during the engine start process. Yes, it's an extra component in the system and a different starter solenoid. However, external ballast resistors almost never fail and they do allow the use of the ballast ignition coil with the benefit of easier starting.
In the end it is the owner's choice and either system will work. However, replacing the pink wire with the ballast resistor is generally less expensive than buying a coil when a new coil is not needed.
1 user(s) are reading this topic
0 members, 1 guests, 0 anonymous users