9 replies to this topic

[Bradders94]

Hi, my hub nut on the passenger front wheel keeps coming undone, i torque it up to 150ft/lbs of torque, and its the 3rd time this has happened in a couple of months,

any help is appreciated or any insight to why it keeps happening :/

Thanks

brad

[tiger99]

More information is needed.

 

If it is a disc brake model, did you follow the correct procedure, torquing up using a large flat washer before fitting the cone?

 

Did you fit a split pin, and did the pin break?

 

If the pin remained intact, either the hub bearing or the shaft, part of the CV, is failing, and about to break.

 

A collapsing bearing spacer will allow the nut to seem loose, but the bearings will be grossly over-tight and will fail.

 

If it has run while loose, the fit of the CV in the drive flange will be ruined and you will definitely need a new drive flange, and probably a CV.

 

Considering the fact that there will certainly be bearing damage due to running while loose, and how safety-critical the hub is, I would suggest a new CV, bearings (genuine only!), drive flange, cone, nut and split pin will be needed. Doing half a job will only ensure that it happens again.

[jaydee]

Disc or drum brake?

[dklawson]

If disks, make sure you followed Tiger's suggestion about the flat washer first, then fitting the split conical washer and re-torquing.  Remember that if the castle nut does not line up to allow the split pin to pass through, tighten MORE to make the holes line up, do NOT back the nut off to install the split pin.

[madaboutcherry]

where can I get one of plain washers everybody recommends using?

[petey81]

Minspares sell them. Soz no link on phone

[Vipernoir]

I've never understood the rationale behind using a flat washer - as soon as you undo the nut to remove a flat washer the whole assembly goes floppy again, totally negating the purpose of using a flat washer to tighten it all up...
As long as the CV is brought in contact with the bearing race from behind and the drive flange pushed back to do the same from the front, I don't see why the taper washer isn't doing the same job.

[firstforward]

Because it is a taper washer, and it clamps it some. If after you applied the flat washer it goes floppy then its been done incorrect somehow as it always stays tight when I have done it the correct way. So the OP knows I had to torque one of mine to 212lb/f to get it to the next hole on the castle nut.

[dklawson]

Using the flat washer also makes sure all the bearing races are fully seated before the conical washer is installed.

 

On another thread currently running someone posted that the washer is available as "Tool21" from Mini Spares and they show it as in stock.

[Sleepy Stu]

If you don't want to fork out for the washer I found the fan washer is the perfect size but obviously don't try and use it for the fan again afterwards!